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Frugal Fireplace Refinishing « Suddenly Frugal Blog
Frugal Fireplace Refinishing

When Bill and I started our home renovation, we knew that one of the projects we wanted done was refinishing the fireplace in the dining room. It was painted white with a sky-blue mantle, and it just wasn’t our taste. (That’s probably why we just piled the crap in it that you see in this picture and never used it as a proper fireplace.) But after finding out how much professionals wanted to do the job (how’s $600 for you?), we knew we needed to do this refinishing project ourselves.

I did some Internet research on the best–and least toxic–way to get paint off a fireplace and get the bricks back to their natural color. I’m pleased to report that in less than 24 hours–and for not a lot of money–we were able to get the job done. Here’s what we did.

First, I removed the wood mantle so that we could get to all of the exposed brick underneath. Notice the lovely yellow paint that was hiding behind the mantle. I used a crowbar to pry the mantle away from the wall, gently, of course, so it would come off in one piece. It did, and I ended up selling the mantle on Craigslist for $30.

Next, we bought a citrus-based paint remover called Citristrip at our local home improvement store. (Note: give the new FTC rules on bloggers and disclosure, neither Citristrip nor my local home improvement store has paid me to mention them.) It’s an orange-colored gel that’s somewhere between marshmallow Fluff and hair conditioner, that you’re supposed to spread liberally all over the bricks. Because it’s a paint remover, we were warned that, if spilled or splattered on wood floors, it could also take the varnish off. So we spread plastic sheets around the fireplace and over the nearby furniture just in case. It was amazingly affordable–only $12 for the bottle.

Then, we spread the stuff on using paint brushes. (We wore gloves and protective eyewear, too.) It smelled surprisingly good–nothing sickening like the insulation our contractor originally choose–and went on easily. Now, we had to wait for it to do its job of loosening the paint, but we didn’t have to wait long. Within 30 minutes we knew the stuff was working because the gel was bubbling up and the paint was starting to fall off the brick on its own. So we got out our scrapers and started, well, scraping!

We were amazed to discover that this fireplace had actually been painted four times. Working backwards, from the layers we removed, the fireplace was white, then before that blue, then green, then before than yellow–no, wait harvest gold. Why the original owners didn’t just leave it the natural, beautiful red brick is beyond me. Then again, this house was built in the 1960s and I’d be willing to bet that the harvest gold paint was applied around the same time that my own mother was investing in harvest gold appliances for the kitchen in the house where she raised me!

While metals scrapers were able to get off most of the peeling paint, eventually we had to bring out the big guns–namely a wire brush attached to a power drill, a power sander and then the Dremel to get any of the stubborn paint off the bricks. This part was the most time-consuming–see Bill sitting down on the job here.

But eventually our hard work paid off as you can see in the lovely, natural brick we were able to restore. As soon as we have a new mantel built and installed (Bill is doing both himself), I’ll post a picture of the finished job.

Bottom line: in keeping with my earlier 10 Grand in My Hand post, we were able to keep $588 in our hands by refinishing our fireplace ourselves. Then if you add in the $30 we made on selling the mantle, we actually ended up “saving” or “keeping” $618!

Tags: brush, color, paint

Painting back of tank with fish and plants?
Painting back of tank with fish and plants?
I made the mistake of not painting the back of my tank before filling with water / fish / plants. I have a black plastic background now but its way too reflective and it drives me crazy. Is there a way to paint it without killing everything? Would spray paint be best or regular paint applied with a brush? Talk to me people…

Painting back of tank with fish and plants?
Why would you kill everything??? The background should be painted on from the outside of the aquarium. If you can get a small roller than can reach behind the tank without painting the wall you’re all set.
__________________
~Vanessa

Tags: brush, Interior Painting, paint, painting, roller

How To Treat Rusty Metal Before Painting

Regardless of which method of rust prevention you choose, proper preparation is the key to success. Approximately 80% of all paint failures is due to improper surface preparation so this step should not be overlooked unless you want to keep doing this over and over.

Rust Removal:
The surface must be cleaned of all loose and flaking rust and paint.
Sandblasting:
Sandblasting is the easiest, quickest way to remove old paint and rust from metal. Compressed air at high pressure is used to blow fine sand or other abrasive material through a hardened spray nozzle and quickly “blasts” away whatever the blast material hits. Sandblasting is ideal for deeply carved wood, metal or brick surfaces, ornamental iron work and hard to reach areas. Small handheld units are available for small jobs like tools, wrought iron handrails, outdoor furniture etc., a compressor is required which you can rent from a local tool rental supply company.
Wire Brushing, Sanding:
Use a hand brush or a wire wheel brush and drill. Normally a few quick passes will remove the loose material. If the surface is to be finished in a smooth painted finish then the wire brushing should be followed up with a complete sanding until it is smooth and free of defects. Normally a rough sanding with 80 grit sandpaper followed by a smooth sanding with 120 grit does an adequate job. Holes, cracks etc should be filled first with an auto body filler material if you are going for a top quality finish. Wrought iron handrails, lawn and garden equipment etc normally do not require a really fine finish whereas a bicycle, patio table, metal door and the like would.
Chemical Removal:
Acid or strong alkaline materials which dissolve rust. These products work well but must be used with extreme caution due to the chemical nature of the products, they are ideal for large areas like metal roofs and buildings. See Metal Roof Wash
Rust Conversion:
Organic Rust Converters. These products convert rust to harmless chemical compounds and deposit on the surface a protective film that protects against rust.
Pros…No serious wire brushing or sanding is required, these products actually need a rusty surface in order for them to work properly. Water Base, Easy to apply, non-flammable. Rust Converters are ideal for ornamental iron and other areas where wire brushing and sanding is difficult or the surface is not easily accessible. They not only convert existing rust to an inert organic surface but also deposit a rust inhibiting polymer on the surface which does not require finish paints or coatings, this is the ideal treatment for ease of use with minimum surface prep required.
Cons…The downside to rust converters is they are thicker than normal coatings and tend to leave a high build, rather “ropey” looking finish, ( looks like paint would with a lot of brush marks). This would not be a problem on wrought iron or any other surface where a super smooth finish is desired.

Cleaning:
Next the surface must be cleaned and degreased, paints and coatings do not bond well to dirty or greasy surfaces. A washing with a strong detergent followed by a through rinsing is required. The light “flash rust” that appears after washing can be removed with a cloth dampened with paint thinner or one of the commercial “surface prep” materials available.

At this point you can coat the metal with a simple oil or grease like WD-40, a good application for something like gardening or hand tools.

Painted items should be primed with a rust inhibiting primer and finished with two coats of a quality exterior enamel. Spraying is quite acceptable but I strongly recommend that the primer be brushed or sprayed and worked into the surface with a brush while still wet. Spray painting alone will not get the paint down into tiny pinholes and crevices but will only “bridge” these areas resulting in premature failure as the moisture and oxygen will attack the exposed steel.

Modern paint chemistry now allows water base paints to be produced which have fantastic rust inhibiting properties and I highly recommend them over solvent base. Besides being low odor and easy to cleanup, an added advantage to water base paints is their ability to melt in with any trapped moisture which may not be visible to the naked eye. These coatings will force the moisture up to the surface and replace it with rust proof chemicals that seal the surface off. You will see rust looking spots in your dried primer but do not be concerned, most can be wiped off with a cloth as it is nothing more than rusty moisture that has been forced to the surface.

Summary:
Regardless of which finish system you use, preparation is a must!
For painted finishes, prep, apply rust converter, or metal primer and two coats of rust inhibiting finish enamel.
This company, Hy-Tech Thermal Solutions, offers a top quality line of time tested and proven rust proof primers, finish paints and surface prep materials.

Tags: brush, exterior, paint, Paint Failure, painting, Painting Metal

DIY: How To Paint Or Stain Almost Anything – Danny Lipford
How To Paint Or Stain Almost Anything

While a fresh coat of paint is one of the best ways to freshen up the walls in any room in your home, there are many other surfaces around the home that you may not have thought to paint, or if you did you may not have been entirely sure how to go about it. Some of these surfaces include concrete, brick, metal, aluminum and even plastic. So if you want to bedazzle your basement walls or make your worn-down aluminum siding a little more alluring – here are some tips on how to go about it.

Keep in mind: The best results for painting anything are achieved with proper preparation and the selection of the appropriate high quality paint product.
Concrete

First, let’s take a look at concrete which can be found in and around the home in driveways, walkways, basement walls and floors etc. There are two ways to treat concrete whether it is inside or outside your home – staining and painting. Choosing whether to stain or to paint your concrete would depend largely upon both the current state of the concrete (new or old and previously treated) as well as the look you want to achieve.
Staining

Similar to wood stain, concrete stain permeates the surface and provides a long-lasting, durable and decorative finish on interior and exterior concrete and masonry surfaces. The stain permeates the surface and actually bonds with concrete and masonry to form a tough shield that doesn’t fade, peel or flake like paint. To extend the life of the stain, consider using a clear stain as a final coat. Stain is inherently more transparent than paint and therefore does not completely cover up the concrete. Paint offers complete coverage and would be considered “opaque”. Concrete stains come in a variety of colors and can create a beautiful custom look to any walkway, patio or indoor floor.
Painting

Again, the choice here would depend upon the look you want as well as the current state of the concrete. Painting is a good choice if you want to create a more solid look, cover over any imperfections in the concrete or are simply re-painting an already painted concrete surface. An ideal choice of paint for basements is one that offers a waterproof feature as well as mildew resistance.

Whether you choose to stain or paint your concrete, make sure the surface is free from dirt and grease, and it is completely dry.
Metal

When it’s time to freshen up a metal handrail or fence, you must be vigilant to completely eliminate metal enemy #1 – RUST! There are a variety of products available that can help remove rust, but the most simple and effective way to do this is with an old-fashioned hand-held wire brush or a special wire brush attachment for your drill. Simply scrub the rust with the wire brush until it is completely gone and then wipe the metal down with mineral spirits. Once you have removed the rust, immediately apply a primer, ideally one that contains a rust inhibitor and then apply a topcoat of high gloss enamel paint.
Aluminum

Many people are surprised to learn that re-painting their existing aluminum siding is not only quite easy but certainly more cost-effective than replacing with new siding. As with all surfaces, the most important step is preparation – in the case of aluminum siding that means completely removing a chalky substance that builds up on siding over time. This chalky substance is usually fairly easily removed with a standard cleaner or degreaser and then wiped dry. However, in some cases a little more scrubbing is required. In most cases aluminum siding does not require a primer, however, if the original coating is completely worn down to the metal, prime those areas with a thinned-down oil based primer. Once you have cleaned and primed where necessary, choose a high quality 100% acrylic latex exterior paint with a satin finish. A satin finish best simulates the look of new aluminum siding.
Plastic

Painting plastic is now much more of an option due to a new product from Krylon called “Fusion” which adheres to plastic in a way no other consumer paint ever has. You can now extend the life of plastic chairs, lawn furniture, and children’s toys and send less plastic to the landfills. When painting plastic it is important to consider the current state of the plastic. If it is brand new, the surface needs to be wiped down with paint remover so that the paint will adhere properly. If it is older, simply wiping it clean will suffice. Apply a thin coat of one of sixteen brilliant colors available, allow to dry for a very short time and then apply again. Applying multiple thin coats of this product will prevent runs and drips.

Tags: brush, color, exterior, gloss, How to..., interior, paint, painting, Painting Metal, satin, simi

Rust Treatment Kit For Wrought Iron | Converts & Prevents Future Rust – Superior Industries
A rust treatment kit designed especially for wrought iron, “Restore” rust treatment consists of two products which convert existing rust from an oxide state into a phosphate. A special zinc coating is applied next which enhances rust protection for up to 7 years. Rust X Converter, included with each kit is sprayed on all areas where rust exists on wrought iron. This rust conversion is achieved thru a special chemical process and actually changes the surface composition. Where loose or hanging rust exists, it is recommended a wire brush be used. This process helps create a more solid surface whereby Rust X Converter provides optimum results.

After Rust X Converter has dried thoroughly, Zin Kote 601, included in each kit, is applied to the wrought iron. Zin Kote 601 is a pure zinc coating and stops future rusting for a minimum of 5 to 7 years. After Zin Kote 601 has been applied and allowed to cure thoroughly, an enamel paint of choice can be used to achieve color requirements. An oil based or latex based enamel is recommended and should be applied within 24 hours after using the “Restore Kit”.

Both Rust X Converter and Zin Kote 601 are packaged in convenient to use aerosol cans. This combination of rust treatment products is unmatched for long term rust & corrosion protection on Wrought Iron.

Tags: brush, color, paint, Painting Metal

Kidnapping plot proves importance of background checks | Charlotte News, Weather, Sports | WCNC.com | Local News
… in North Carolina you don’t have to have a license or even have to pull permits to be a home improvement contractor if the job is under $30,000.

“All you have to have is a business card and a hammer or paintbrush and that’s it,” said Bartholomy.

Tags: brush, paint

How to Paint a Wall in 4 Steps | DoItYourself.com
Learning how to paint a wall is a fun and a rewarding task that can be shared with your whole family. Follow the steps below to get started in painting a wall in your home.

Step1-Gather the Necessary Materials

You will need the following materials to get your project off the ground:

* 1 large paint bucket;
* 1 metal screen for the bucket;
* 1firm bristled brush;
* 1 one roller;
* 1 can of primer (unless your walls are white in which case you won’t need to prime);
* 1 roll of plastic poly;
* 1 roll of painter’s tape;
* 1-2 pieces of sand paper, and;
* 1 can of paint.

Step 2-Before You Prime

Use the plastic roll of poly and some blue painters tape to cover and protect the floor and any valuables near the wall you intend to paint. Take down any art work that may be on the wall. Use the painter’s tape to cover the corners of anything you don’t want paint on like the window or mantle.

Step 3-Prime Your Wall

Use the hard bristled brush to edge the wall. Edging the wall means that you should paint a 8-10 inch wide margin around all corners. This will make it easier to be accurate with the roller. Once you have edged and rolled the entire wall in primer, wait for it to dry thoroughly and then sand it. Run the sand paper up and down the entire wall until it is smooth and shiny.

Step 4-Paint Your Wall

Follow the same steps for painting as you would for priming. Edge the wall’s corners, windows, and anything else that may be risky to use the roller near. Once you have completed the edging, use the roller on the rest of the wall. Don’t forget to run the roller along the metal screen in the paint bucket, this will keep your work clean and even. Depending on the thickness of your paint and your personal color preference, wait for the paint to dry, sand it once more, and then paint again. Always use at least two coats and three at the most for the best results.

Tags: brush, color, How to..., Interior Painting, paint, painting, roller, Uncategorized

What to check when paint won’t stick to stucco
Q: In 2005, we painted our 1959 stucco house in the Washington Manor area of San Leandro with elastomeric paint. I was home and over the course of the week, I watched the contractor power wash, scrape, then prime and roll on the new paint.

Within six months, the new paint began to peel and flake. The contractor came back and redid the work, but it continues to flake off. On the Internet I see comments on lawsuits regarding this type of paint. I’m not interested in that. I just want to repaint my house without elastomeric paint. How do I seal the walls?

A: We’re surprised you are seeing stories of lawsuits. Generally, elastomeric paint, a thick, durable product that expands and contracts with the weather, is good stuff. We did a little digging and found a sprinkling of references to legal action around the use of elastomeric paint.

It sounds to us like your painting contractor did a good job following all the right steps. We confess we’re befuddled as to why the previous job failed. One answer might well be incompatibility of materials. But another might be continuing moisture penetration behind the stucco itself. Stucco and paint are engineered to “breathe,” allowing some moisture to escape. But constant dampness is never good.

Do a thorough inspection of the roof and places where wood joins the stucco. These are likely areas where water can get between the stucco and the wood substrate. Our recollection is that homes in the Manor did not have weep screeds (a type of metal flashing) at the bottom of the walls to wick away moisture. This makes it possible that excess moisture in the stucco could have contributed to the failure of the elastomeric job. So pay attention to the areas under the windows and doors and where the stucco hits ground level. That’s often where water finds its way in.

The process to repaint is essentially the same as your painting contractor followed. Pressure wash the stucco to remove dirt and whatever peeling paint may be left. Patch any cracks, being sure to take care of any area where moisture can get behind the stucco. Prime the surface and apply the finish coats. Attention to detail in each of these steps will produce a quality job. Before pressure washing, use a shovel to lower the grade at the base of the stucco. Make sure to pressure wash the dirt off this area. This will ensure that the whole wall is primed and painted, top to bottom. Pressure wash the stucco at a pressure of between 1,200 to 1,500 psi using a wide spray pattern to avoid damaging it.

Let the stucco dry a day or two after pressure washing. This will allow any residual moisture to evaporate. Next, prime the walls. This step will seal any small voids in the stucco body. Make sure the primer is formulated for use on stucco and that the finish material is compatible for that primer. We suggest purchasing the primer and finish paint at a paint store, rather than a hardware store or home center. That way you can be relatively certain the primer and finish coats are compatible.

The next step is to seal any cracks. Don’t throw a rock at us, but we recommend elastomeric caulk and a brush grade elastomeric coating for this step. We really like the elasticity of this material. It greatly lessens the chance that surface cracks will reappear. Pay special attention to areas around door and window frames, as stucco tends to crack at the joint where window and door frames meet the wall.

Finally, apply two coats of 100 percent acrylic latex paint in the color of your choice. Don’t skimp. The higher the cost, the better the paint. The qualities you want are:

– Ability to breathe, allowing internal moisture to escape and still be resistant to external sources of water.

– Flexibility – the ability to move with the house without splitting.

– Ability to bridge small cracks.

– Resistance to dirt pickup and mildew growth. Adding a mildewcide to the paint is a good idea.

– Resistant to chipping, chalking and peeling for maximum longevity.

These might not be listed on the label. Any salesperson at a paint store should be able to help.

Follow these steps and you should have a long-lasting paint job this time around.

E-mail the Burnett brothers at sweatequity@sfchronicle.com.

This article appeared on page E – 8 of the San Francisco Chronicle

Tags: brush, color, paint, painting, Painting Stucco

How to paint a room without painting the ceilings? | Paint Tips
I’m just wondering how to paint a bedroom without getting the paint onto the ceilings. This is the first time my parents and i are going to paint a room! Excited! We’re only going to paint the walls. So what materials do we need besides the paint? Like what type of brush do we use? Or the rolly thingy.. Do we need to layout anything on the floor? Thank you for your help!

If you have any furniture in the room, place it all in the middle and place either an old sheet or a plastic tarp over it to protect it. Vaccum the floor to keep from getting it stuck in your paint on your walls.

If you don’t have furniture there, protect the floor instead. Don’t use newspaper, since it makes the floors all dirty with newsprint ink. Do you know if the walls are painted with oil based paint or is it latex or acryllic paint on the walls now? If it’s latex, you can simply paint over with latex paint. If the walls are a dark color or a very vibrant color such as red and you’re planning on putting on a light color, then you’ll need to prime your wall with primer. If the walls are a light color now and you’re planning on painting them a dark color or a vibrant color, it’s best to also use a primer and have it tinted to match your paint. That way, you won’t need as much paint. Otherwise, you’ll need 3 sometimes 4 coats, depending on the color.

If the paint on the walls is oil based paint or you aren’t sure, then use an oil based primer, no matter what. You can paint latex paint on top of oil based primer, but if you paint latex paint on top of oil paint, then your latex paint will scratch, peel and scrape off within days, sometimes within hours. The oil based primer I like to work with is Bull’s Eye H2Oil, which you can pretty much find at any Home Depot.
http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/49-353-interior-primer/zinsser-h2-oil-base-primer-sealer-170670.aspx
I like it because it’s easy to wash up after. Most oil based primers need turpentine to wash up after… yuck!

To paint your walls and not get any on either the baseboards or the ceiling, simply use painter’s tape. Don’t use ordinary masking tape as it will be an absolute hassle. You really need painter’s tape. they sell it either at any home hardware or paint store and you can sometimes even find some at Dollar Stores.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotch-BlueBrand/Scotch-Blue/Products/One/
Simply put this tape on the ceiling where the wall meets the ceiling. Paint away and as soon as your final coat of paint is dry, remove the tape carefully, pulling it away from the wall. Don’t wait until the paint is dry to remove it, or you risk ruining your paint job. You can use the tape along door frames, window frames, molding and trim.

Here are the items you’ll need to paint – oh… and your brush should be suitable for the type of paint – latex or oil – the brushes are labelled at the store so you can’t go wrong there. Some brushes are suitable for both so if you’re using both oil primer and latex paint, then get one suited for both types of paint. As for the roller, you’ll find that rollers are labelled for the type of surface you’ll be painting – thin pile for smooth surfaces, thick pile for rough surfaces – such as popcorn ceilings or stucco surfaces. Between coats, so your brushes and rollers don’t dry, simply wrap them tight in old plastic bags. When your first coat is dry, simply take the brush or roller out of the bag and do the next coat. This way, you save time washing up because you only do it once – at the end. You’ll easily be able to tell them apart. Don’t use foam brushes or rollers as they are more suited to painting furniture.

Here’s the list of other items you’ll need:
RAGS – to wipe up any spilled paint or drops or smears on the wall. Have one damp rag and one dry one.
BRUSHES, ROLLERS, EXTENDABLE HANDLE
STEP LADDER
SMALL PLASTIC CONTAINERS – they’re much easier to lug around than a gallon and if they spill, the mess is contained – you can use old margarine containers that have been cleaned – paint washes off plastic easily
GOOD LIGHTING – if you’re painting in the evening – I don’t recommend it.
PAINTER’S TAPE
PLASTIC TARP OR DROPCLOTH – an old sheet works fine, even to cover furniture.
PAINT TRAY for the roller. Never fill this up too much, as it makes applying paint to the roller difficult and it’s hard to move around the room without making a mess.
A FAN – which is great for helping the air move around and dry quicker.

Here’s a video or two to show you, how to do it, just in case you’re more visual or in case I forgot something – this is a great video!
http://www.howcast.com/videos/716-How-To-Paint-a-Wall

Hope this helps… have a great time painting! I love painting!

Tags: brush, color, interior, Interior Painting, paint, painting, roller

Uses of White Vinegar in Your House
White distilled vinegar is a popular household cleanser, effective for killing most mold, bacteria, and germs, due to its level of acidity. Cleaning with white distilled vinegar is a smart way to avoid using harsh chemicals. You�ll also be glad to know that it is environmentally friendly and very economical.To shine chrome sink fixtures that have a lime buildup, use a paste made of 2 tablespoons salt and 1 teaspoon white distilled vinegar.

Make your own scouring cleanser by combining 1/4 cup baking soda with 1 tablespoon liquid detergent. Add just enough white distilled vinegar to give it a thick but creamy texture.

Clean counter tops and make them smell sweet again with a cloth soaked in undiluted white distilled vinegar.

Clean and deodorize a drain by pouring in 1 cup baking soda, then one cup hot white distilled vinegar. Let this sit for 5 minutes or so, then run hot water down the drain.

Deodorize the garbage disposal by pouring in 1/2 cup baking soda and 1/2 cup hot white distilled vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes then run hot water down the disposal.

Deodorize and clean the garbage disposal with white distilled vinegar ice cubes. Make them by freezing full-strength white distilled vinegar in an ice cube tray. Run several cubes down the disposal while flushing with cold water.

Clean the microwave by mixing 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar and 1/2 cup water in a microwave-safe bowl. Bring it to a rolling boil inside the microwave. Baked-on food will be loosened, and odors will disappear. Wipe clean.

Clean the shelves and walls of the refrigerator with a half-and-half solution of water and white distilled vinegar.

Cut the grime on the top of the refrigerator with a paper towel or cloth and full-strength white distilled vinegar.

Avoid the bad smell when you heat up a newly cleaned oven by using a sponge soaked in diluted white distilled vinegar for the final rinse.

To clean a grease splattered oven door window, saturate it with full-strength white distilled vinegar. Keep the door open for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping with a sponge.

Remove soap buildup and odors from the dishwasher by pouring a cup of white distilled vinegar inside the empty machine and running it through a whole cycle. Do monthly.

To prevent good glassware from getting etched by minerals, wash then spray with full-strength white distilled vinegar. Give the glasses a hot water rinse before letting them dry or drying them with a towel.

For cloudy glassware, soak paper towels or a cloth in full-strength white distilled vinegar and wrap around the inside and outside of the glass. Let sit awhile before rinsing clean.

Get rid of lime deposits in a tea kettle by adding 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar to the water and letting it sit overnight. If more drastic action is needed, boil full-strength white distilled vinegar in the kettle a few minutes, let cool and rinse with plain water.

Remove mineral deposits from coffee makers with white distilled vinegar. Fill the water reservoir with 1 cup or more of white distilled vinegar and run it through a whole cycle. Run it once or twice more with plain water to rinse clean. (Check the owners� manual first.)

Remove stains from coffee and teacups by scrubbing them gently with equal parts of salt (or baking soda) and white distilled vinegar. Rinse clean.

For stained and smelly plastic food containers, wipe them with a cloth dampened with white distilled vinegar.

Remove odors from a lunch box by placing inside a slice of bread that has been soaked in white distilled vinegar. Leave overnight.

Remove ugly film in narrow-necked glass jars, flower vases, and bottles by letting undiluted white distilled vinegar sit in them for a few hours. Add a little rice or sand and shake vigorously to loosen stubborn stains. Repeat if necessary.

To clean tarnished brass, copper, and pewter, use a paste with equal amounts of white distilled vinegar and table salt.

Make a metal cleanser by adding enough white distilled vinegar to 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar to make a paste. Rub it on and let it dry on the surface. Wash it off and dry with a soft cloth.

Polish brass and copper with a mixture of 2 tablespoons of ketchup and 1 tablespoon white distilled vinegar. Rub it on with a clean cloth until dry and shiny.

Remove dark stains on an aluminum pot by boiling a mixture of 1 cup white distilled vinegar and 1 cup hot water.

Discourage ants by spraying undiluted white distilled vinegar outside doorways and windowsills, around appliances and wherever you find the pests coming in.

Get rid of fruit flies by setting out a small dish of undiluted white distilled vinegar.

Clean the wheel of a can opener using white distilled vinegar and an old toothbrush.

Remove the smell of spoiled food from a refrigerator by first rinsing the area with soap and water. Spray surfaces with full-strength white distilled vinegar and wipe them down with a damp cloth or sponge. Fill some containers with baking soda and place inside. Close the door and leave for a few days.

Wipe grease off exhaust fan grids, the inside of your oven, or anywhere grease gathers with a sponge soaked in white distilled vinegar.

To make cleaning the grill easier, spray a solution of half water and half white distilled vinegar on the cooking surface.

To remove a label, decal, or price tag, cover with a cloth soaked in white distilled vinegar. Leave the cloth on overnight and the label should slide off.

Renew sponges and dishrags by placing them in just enough water to cover them. Then add 1/4 cup white distilled vinegar. Let them soak overnight.

Get rid of calcium deposits on faucets by soaking a cloth or paper towel in white distilled vinegar and wrapping the area tightly. Let this sit for a couple of hours or overnight.

Remove soap buildup from faucets by scrubbing them with a solution of 1 part salt to 4 parts white distilled vinegar.

Rid a faucet of lime deposits by tying a plastic bag containing 1/2 to 1/3 cup of white distilled vinegar around it and leaving it there for two or three hours. If mineral deposits don�t wipe off, scrubbing with an old toothbrush should complete the job.

Shine colored porcelain sinks by scouring them with undiluted white distilled vinegar.

Rinse away soapy film on countertops with a solution of white distilled vinegar and water.

Clean grout by letting full-strength white distilled vinegar sit on it for a few minutes and scrubbing it with an old toothbrush.

Kill germs all around the bathroom with a spray of full-strength white distilled vinegar. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.

To remove grime, mildew, and scum from the tub, tile, shower curtain or door, wipe with undiluted white distilled vinegar. Rinse with water.

Spray shower doors with full-strength white distilled vinegar after you�ve squeegeed the glass, or before you step in and turn on the water. It will help release the hard water deposits so they don�t remain on the glass.

Mix up an inexpensive tile cleaner by adding 1/2 cup baking soda, 1 cup white distilled vinegar, and 1 cup ammonia to a gallon of warm water.

Get rid of stubborn bathtub film by wiping it with white distilled vinegar and then scouring with baking soda.

Soak a sponge or loofah overnight in a strong white distilled vinegar and water solution to remove dirt and slime. Rinse several times with cold water and let air dry (in the sun if possible).

Clean shower door tracks by filling them with white distilled vinegar and letting it sit for a few hours. Pour hot water into the tracks and wash and scrub away the scum with a toothbrush.

To clean a scummy showerhead, pour 1/2 cup baking soda and 1 cup white distilled vinegar into a sandwich bag and tie it around the showerhead. Let this set for an hour after the bubbling has stopped. Remove the bag and then turn on the water.

Deodorize the toilet bowl by allowing 3 cups white distilled vinegar to sit in it for about a half hour before flushing.

To make the toilet bowl sparkle, pour in a cup or more of diluted white distilled vinegar and let it sit several hours or overnight. Scrub well with the toilet brush and flush.

Freshen air in the bathroom by spraying into the air a solution of 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 tablespoon white distilled vinegar, and 1 cup water.

Get a shining finish on a no-wax vinyl or linoleum floor by cleaning it with a solution of one cup white distilled vinegar for every gallon of water.

Apply full-strength white distilled vinegar directly to tough linoleum stains. Leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping it up. If that doesn�t work, apply white distilled vinegar again and then sprinkle some baking soda over the white distilled vinegar. Scrub the area with a brush or sponge. Rinse clean with water.

For an economical and environmentally friendly floor cleaner, mix a solution of 3 drops dishwashing liquid to 1/3 part white distilled vinegar, 1/3 part alcohol, and 1/3 part water. Spray sparingly and mop for a fast clean-up.

Some carpet stains can be removed with a paste of 2 tablespoons white distilled vinegar and 1/4 cup salt or baking soda. Rub into the carpet stain and let dry. Vacuum up the residue the next day. (Always test on an out-of-sight part of the carpet first).

Bring out the color in carpet by brushing it with a solution of 1 cup white distilled vinegar for every gallon of water. (Always test on an out-of-sight part of the carpet beforehand).

To reduce soap bubbles in a steam cleaner add about 1/4 cup white distilled vinegar. Use the same amount in the rinse water to remove detergent residue and make carpets stay fresh longer.

Wash indoor/outdoor carpet with a solution of 1 cup white distilled vinegar in 1 bucket of warm water. Scrub using a brush or a broom and then hose off.

Clean up pet accidents by first blotting up the area and then adding a white distilled vinegar-and-water solution. Blot until it is almost dry. Then sprinkle baking soda over the area and let it dry. Vacuum up the residue the next day.

Create your own window cleaning solution by combining 1/2 cup non-sudsy ammonia, 1 cup white distilled vinegar, and 2 tablespoons cornstarch in a gallon of water.

Remove the wax residue left by commercial window cleaners with a solution of 2 cups water, 1 cup white distilled vinegar and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap or detergent.

To remove paint from windows try using undiluted, hot white distilled vinegar. Give the solution time to soften the paint before removing with a razor edge tool.

To remove paint splatters from windows apply full-strength white distilled vinegar with a clean paintbrush.

Get rid of mildew, dust, and stale odors by wiping down walls with undiluted white distilled vinegar on a cloth or a sponge mop.

Clean woodwork and walls with a mixture of 1 cup white distilled vinegar, 1 cup baking soda, 1/2 cup ammonia and 1 gallon warm water. Wipe on with a sponge or damp�not wet�towel.

Clean wood paneling with a solution of 1/4 cup olive oil, 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar, and 2 cups warm water. Wipe on with a soft cloth.

Remove wallpaper easily by using a paint roller to wet the surface very thoroughly with a solution of equal parts white distilled vinegar and hot water. Or spray on until saturated.

Get decals off walls or doors by letting undiluted white distilled vinegar soak into them for several minutes before trying to peel them off. Repeat if necessary.

Remove white water rings from wood with a solution of equal parts white distilled vinegar and vegetable oil. Rub with the grain.

Remove fireplace soot and grime with undiluted white distilled vinegar. Use a brush to scrub and a towel to blot up the wetness and dirt.

Clean fireplace glass doors with a solution of 1 part white distilled vinegar to 2 parts water. Spray or wipe on, then wipe clean with a dry cloth.

To kill germs, spray full-strength white distilled vinegar on doorknobs and then wipe them dry.

Remove the smell of a dead mouse or other rodent (after removing all animal remnants) by wiping down the area with either white distilled vinegar or bleach. Then place a fabric softener sheet in the area to remove any lingering odors.

Never use white distilled vinegar on marble. The acid can damage the surface.

Before painting old concrete, clean with full-strength white distilled vinegar. Let it air dry.

Clean hardened paint brushes by simmering them in a pot with white distilled vinegar. Soak them first for an hour before bringing the white distilled vinegar to a simmer. Drain and rinse clean.

Remove mud and stains from plastic, fiberglass, or aluminum sports equipment by applying a paste of 1 part white distilled vinegar to 3 parts baking soda. Wipe off with soapy water and rinse with clear water.

Clean your grill by spritzing white distilled vinegar over wadded up aluminum foil and scrubbing the grill vigorously with it.

To remove film in glass baby bottles, fill with equal parts hot water and white distilled vinegar. Let sit for at least an hour. Scrub with a bottle brush.

To clean and disinfect baby toys add a good-sized splash of white distilled vinegar to soapy water.

Clean vinyl baby books or board books by wiping with white distilled vinegar. Wipe clean with a damp sponge or cloth.

Clean scissors that have become sticky (after cutting tape, for instance) with a cloth dipped in undiluted white distilled vinegar.

Clean and deodorize urine on a mattress with a white distilled vinegar and water solution. Then sprinkle the area with baking soda and let dry. Brush or vacuum the residue after it is dry to the touch.

Shine pennies by soaking them for a couple of hours or overnight in a glass or bowl of undiluted white distilled vinegar.

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