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023 Day of Love || Vision over Visiblity
Since Ben was born at 34 weeks, my family began to panic realizing that his expected birthday at the end of April was approaching. They wanted to do something special for Pam and me. My mom called me up and asked what the family could do. I’m one of six kids and we are all a bit unique so that’s a packed question. Pam and I were in the middle of converting the attic into an office space and converting a small room into a master bath. There was a ton to do. We needed help with that for sure, but it all required skills. They needed a task that was fit for the talents akin to a senior high youth group on a mission trip. For one weekend.

Our house didn’t need to be painted. I wanted to paint it eventually, but it didn’t need it. Parts of it needed it, but not the whole thing. It was a nice neutral tan. But I’m never content with leaving things alone: everything could use a little personal touch.

So I invited the family up for a weekend of painting. Pam and I were itching to paint the house yellow. Why? Surely other homes in our neighborhood were bright and cheery on our block. Nope. They are all neutral. Some of them are white… that’s about as bright as they get.

So it was set, my family was going to come from Philly to York the last weekend in April for a weekend of painting. All Pam and I had to do was pick the shade of Yellow. Simple enough, right? We purchased dozens of samples and put them on our house. Some were too white, others too bright, others too peach, others too tan. All we wanted was a nice gentle yellow. Our house was asking us to make it more like a cottage (at least that’s what we thought we heard it saying). We finally choose the color “May Yellow” from a local paint store. We bought 15 gallons and were ready to rock and roll.

A couple of days before my family showed up I called my dad who used to be a professional painter by trade. That’s a critical point here. We were counting on Dad’s wisdom and expertise to analyze and assess the situation and advise accordingly. Our house isn’t massive, but it isn’t tiny either. It’s a two story colonial house with a full attic. It’s got some height to it. I thought the family was coming up for the weekend, but Dad informed me that they only needed a Saturday as long as I did all the prep work. I clearly remember asking him if he was SURE he needed just one day. He assured me.

“One Saturday is all we need.” he said.

Saturday came and I woke up at 6 a.m. to finish the final stages of prep for the house. There was a lot to clean and power wash. I started painting the trim white on the bottom part of the house and waited for the family to come. The Philly bus arrived at 11 a.m. for an all day job. My only thought was: this is going to be a very late night.

As soon as they arrived Pam left with my mom to get some missing materials from Lowes. That’s when my dad opened the 5 gallon drum of May Yellow and rolled the first section on the side of the house. It was horrible. It wasn’t yellow: it was yellow on acid. Yellow with battery power. The color of dog pee in fresh snow. You couldn’t stare at it longer than 5 seconds without it burning your retinas. I called Pam instantly.

We panicked on the phone:

J: “Pam, what should I do?”
P: “Is it the color we picked?”
J: “Yes… I think. It’s the same name of the sample we bought.
P: “Can you put it next to the sample still on our house?”
J: “Good idea, I’m doing it now.”
P: “Is it the same?”
J: “No. Well, kind of. I don’t know. Now they both look bright. I’m sooooo confused!!!!”
P: “Call the paint store.”

So I did. And they were closing in 10 minutes. My neighbors came out and joined the fun. They said they loved the color. Even our neighbor’s mom and dad joined in the fun. So here we were: My dad, my brother Andrew, my sisters Emily and Ashley, and my brother-in-law Ian, my two neighbors and their mother-in-law. Rollers in hand looking at me to make a choice.

So I called Pam again.

J: “Pam, the paint store closes in 5 minutes. We are 15 minutes from there. I don’t know if they messed up or not. I don’t know if this color is right or not. All I know is that this corner of the house looks like it’s on yellow drugs. They are all standing around me with paint brushes and rollers. What should I do????”
P: “Just have them paint the house. I’m sure it will be fine.”
J: “I agree. Let’s just let them loose on the house.”

So we let them loose.

I painted one side of the house, my brother and brother-in-law painted the other side’s bottom and the front bottom, my sister Emily (for some reason) power washed what was already painted, my Dad was on the chimney painting it white, and my sister Ashley wisely stuck to planting flowers and set up baskets under all the windows.

Pam arrived at 1:00 to 1/8 of her house painted tinkle yellow. And that was her reaction. Logically she began to panic and logically we tried to calm her down saying things like, “It’s still drying. Once it’s dry it will be much duller.” “All the neighbors liked it.” “Just give it some time and it will grow on you for sure.”

We started at 11:00 broke for lunch at 1:00. Two hours of solid mission trip style help. We had hamburgers and hot dogs and sat in the back yard. At one point my dad said, “Hey John, these brown spots are great places to put your plate and drink.

“Dad, they are brown from the dog’s pee.”

“Oh. Never mind then.”

So our afternoon shift picked up again at 2:00. Pam wandered around the house looking at in it in the shade, looking for dry spots to get dryer and duller, and praying to God. Basically in full out panic.

Then came 5:00. I was unaware this was shut down time. 1/3 of our house was painted bright shinny yellow. Pam was a quiet wreck. I was in shock. My family was tired and ready to go home.

So we packed up. Ash finished the flowers. We all cleaned our brushes. The day of love was complete. All we needed was one last cherry to top the day off: a picture of our amazing work. Look close and take careful note at the look on Pam’s face.

That night as Pam and I laid in bed she was trying to think how we could just sell the house and loose any profits. We had a half neon house, a tore up attic, a tore up master bedroom, and a tore up potential space for a master bath. She just wanted to walk away and get a do over. If she was playing Nintendo she would have hit reset on level 6 of Mario Brothers: just when it was started to get good. She was convinced our realtor had a reset button we could hit.

This day in history will always be known as “The Day of Love” in our family. What’s so great about this day is that Pam and I really did need it. We were drowning in sorrow with Ben and needed Miller family chaos to give us something new to stress about. It gave us something to laugh about, and we continue to laugh about it. I think when people around us are suffering we often don’t know what to do or to say. It’s because so many times there ISN’T anything that can be said. Sometimes you just need to show up.

So they showed up with brushes, rollers, soil, flowers, pots and a two-foot roller that my dad and brother fought over. When they left our house was 1/3 painted bursting with flowers. It really was a sight to be seen. The paint never got any duller.

Within days Pam found a much quieter yellow and painted the entire bottom half of the house by herself in one afternoon. She was in full panic mode. That too, was a sight to be seen. My dad came back by himself in a couple weeks and finished the job all alone while I was at work. I love my family and would do anything for them. And they would do anything for me entertaining me every step of the way.

(If anyone needs 11 gallons of May yellow, let me know. We have some really cheap.)

Pam’s face says it all. (she’s the one in the back middle)

CBS The Early Show, Exterior, Home Improvement, Painting & Finishing by Danny Lipford

Of all the remodeling projects, by far, the one tackled more often
by homeowners is painting. We’re entering the time of the year when it
makes sense to take on any outside painting, because the weather is
going to be cooler and more comfortable. But not all outdoor painting
projects are equal. You may have several types of surfaces to paint
outside your home and each has its own unique method to ensure success.
Here are a few tips that, hopefully, will keep your colors and your
painting experience bright.

Painting Wood

Whether it’s lap siding, board and battens or porch railings, if you
want a successful paint job, it all starts with preparation. As is
often the case with wood surfaces that have to deal with Mother Nature,
the old paint begins to flake, exposing raw wood.. Before you pick up
your paint brush, you need to remove as much of the old, flaking paint
as possible. This can be done with a simple paint scraper. If, however,
you have a large area in need of scraping, you’re best bet is to use a
drill motor or cordless drill with an attachment specifically designed
for stripping paint. A synthetic fiber wheel does a great job and lasts
much longer than the old sandpaper wheels that are often used. For very
stubborn spots, you could also apply a chemical paint stripper. This,
however, will mean that the job is going to take you longer to complete
because the surface needs to be completely dry before moving on to the
next step. Once the loose paint is removed, prime the raw wood with a
good quality primer before applying a finished coat of paint.

Painting Wrought Iron

The process for iron work, such as railings, columns or decorative
hangings is very similar to wood, which means the most important step
is preparation. Using your drill motor or cordless drill with a wire
wheel attachment is perfect for removing any rust or deteriorating
paint. There are also chemical strippers available for iron, but in
most cases, the wire wheel is sufficient. To prime the metal surface,
you need to choose a primer made for metals. You can purchase it in
liquid form and apply it with a brush like normal paint, but if the
metal has intricate details, you’d be better off using an aerosol spray
primer. The metal primer will typically have a rust inhibitor
formulated in it and will be either a gray or burnt umber color when
applied. Once the primer dries, it provides a surface that new paint
will bind to so it will last for years without flaking.

Painting Masonry and Concrete

Brick, cinder block and stucco surfaces all have one thing in
common: They are porous. Preparation for masonry surfaces starts with
sealing them. A masonry primer will do the job, but be forewarned,
these sealers are usually quite thick, more so than paint, and it takes
a lot longer to cover the area you’re painting, but it needs to be
done. Actually, there are some newer methods out there to spray the
sealers on masonry surfaces as well as new paint, but it’s mainly done
by professionals and not for do-it-yourselfers.

Concrete is very similar, but in addition to being able to paint it,
you can also put stain on it. Staining can actually be a little less
strenuous than painting since coverage is greater and it’s easier to
apply. There are a lot of colors to choose from, too, so you can match
or compliment other colors on your house.

Painting Metal

Although I already mentioned wrought iron, there are other metal
surfaces around your house that could stand a coat of paint at times.
Eave metal, valley metal and even roof vents can all be painted. The
challenge is how to prepare them. Most of these metals are galvanized
and paint, typically, won’t stick to them. The secret is a common item
you probably have in your kitchen pantry. Take a rag and dip it in
simple white vinegar. Swab the metal surface with the soaked rag and
allow it to dry. There is a chemical reaction with the vinegar that
creates a surface that any spray paint will adhere to. Roof vents are
probably the best thing to spray paint, because you can paint it a
color to match your shingles and help make it blend into the color of
the roof. It really looks a lot better than a dull, rusty metal vent.

Painting Plastic

Finally, for items such as lawn furniture or even something as
simple as a flower pot made from plastic, there are some really great
ways to make them look spectacular. Certainly, a spray paint formulated
to bond with plastic is what you want to use, but you don’t have to
settle for simple color any more. First, wash the plastic with a water
and mild detergent solution to remove any dirt and grime. Once it is
completely dry, you can spray paint it with some of the new plastic
paints that also will spray on a texture, such as hammered metal.
You’ve got several color choices and it makes a really unique
appearance.

One final word of advice. Be sure to read the directions to any of
these specialty paints paying close attention to recommended weather
conditions, proper ventilation and application options.

Related Article: How to paint or stain almost anything

Let It Shine: Painted Ceiling Medallion
I loved the ceiling medallion in the dining room that came with the house. It just never really stood out against the white popcorn ceilings

The chandelier is a bit plain for my taste too, but not the focus today.

I didn’t even bother to tape the area off. I just used a good angled brush with Kilz exterior black paint. (It claims one coat coverage, however you can see that’s not the case)

I applied a second coat of black and dry brushed acrylic craft paint in burnt umber, with the same angled brush.

I used a sponge brush to highlight the raised areas with gold (acrylic craft paint).

I used some scrap fabric from my bedding to make a chandelier cover. Similar to what I did here, but instead I ironed the seams before hand, and glued it together while on a ladder.

Press Release – Long Island Painting Company, Goldbrush Painting Celebrates Over 30 Years In Business Servicing Satisfied Customers
SHIRLEY, NY, September 27, 2009 /24-7PressRelease/ — GoldBrush Painting Inc, a full service painting company specializes in both interior and exterior painting. In addition, the company provides clients with an assortment of services ranging from repaints, wallpaper removal, powerwashing, wood staining & finishing, sheetrock repairs and spackling.

This family owned painting company has been servicing residents in Nassau County and Suffolk County since 1976. They have successfully completed painting projects in South Hampton, Head of the Harbor, Nissequogue, Old Westbury, Roslyn, Brookville and Garden City. GoldBrush Painting is committed to providing each client with the highest level of quality craftsmanship.

Long Island’s Expert Painting Contractors

When it comes to painting, founder Tony Pitti and sons hire and train only the best in the industry. The company’s talented painting contractors have between 10-20 years of painting experience.

According to Tony Pitti, “All our experienced painters are very neat, respectful, and trust worthy”. This is one of the primary reasons why their most valued customers continue to use their painting services year after year.

Mr. Pitti believes that preparation is the most critical aspect of any interior or exterior painting project. The staff at GoldBrush Painting takes pride in the fact that they only use first-rate materials for each and every paint job.

Quality Painting Guaranteed
GoldBrush Painting offers a multiplicity of artistic, architectural and protective coatings such as staining and finishes. Upon completion of each job, workers thoroughly clean the work area leaving the clients home neat and tidy. Additionally, all painting jobs are completed in an immaculate attractive durable finish. Homeowners who use GoldBrush Painting are given quality service and customer satisfaction guaranteed.
It is common in the painting industry to hire out subcontractors for paint jobs on an as needed basis. When homeowners choose Goldbrush Painting Company, they are guaranteed a well trained in-house painter – not subcontractors unlike many of their competitors.

GoldBrush Painting utilizes in-house painting contractors to ensure each client has the highest level of workmanship by well trained professionals.

About The Company
GoldBrush Paining Inc. has been a family run business for the past 33 years. Tony Pitti, A.J. Pitti and Jacob Pitti are dedicated to providing every client with the highest level of service from beginning to end. The company offers customers consultation and free estimates.

Gold Brush Painting
22 Propose Rd,
Shirley, New York 11967
(516) 790-3953
http://www.longislandpaintingcompany.com

Painting a Steel Door
Painting a Steel Door

Often there is some confusion about painting a steel door. Many homeowners have heard about the problems associated with painting pre-primed steel doors. Some of these problems are excessive peeling of the paint on the door or frame and difficulty to hide brush strokes on a smooth surface.

Most problems with painting a metal door are preventable and stem from lack of knowledge about the factory primer and the proper steps involved when painting a steel door. Another factor that will affect the life of the paint is the color and the use of a storm door, follow the manufactures recommendations.

Insulated steel entry doors are a great life long purchase and if painted correctly can be virtually maintenance free for many years.

General Procedures for Painting a Steel Door

Most of the work involved when painting steel doors is with the preparation. This is true even for a new, unpainted, steel door. The beauty and longevity of your steel door is dependant on the following procedures. These apply to the frame and trim as well.

1) Remove Hardware and Weather Stripping

No matter which painting method you use, remove all the locking hardware from the door and frame, including strike plates. Brushing around these items is difficult and time consuming. Other items to be removed can be kick plates and doorknockers. Remove the hinges if you are painting a steel door detached from the frame.
Now remove the weather stripping. Many door manufactures have removable weather stripping. It simply pulls out of a grove in the frame. Remember how it came out for reinstallation and store in a safe place.

If the weather stripping cannot be removed, stapled or secured in place, you can use a drywall knife to act as a shield while brushing the frame and trim. Otherwise apply masking tape for protection while painting.

2) Remove Excess Window Glazing

Doors with windows or sidelights need to have the excess glazing removed prior to painting. This caulking material will have emerged from under the window frame; can be a sticky compound or silicone caulk.

Use a new single edge razor blade and score the glazing next to the frame. Be careful not to cut the frame. Now remove the excess glazing by holding the blade perpendicular and close to the frame. Carefully scrape the glazing loose.

After the glazing is removed wipe the area clean with a solvent to remove any remaining film. Use denatured alcohol for silicone and mineral spirits if the glazing is sticky.

3) Clean and Mask

A clean surface is important while painting a steel door. Pay special attention to greasy fingerprints and general grime. Any mild cleaner can be used, rinse well after cleaning. Another cleaning method is to wipe the steel door and sidelights with a clean rag saturated with denatured alcohol. This will remove most types of surface contamination.

After the door is cleaned and dry, mask the glass and any other items not to be painted. The amount of masking depends on the painting method you use.

Masking a window before spraying a steel door.
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Steel door masked and ready for spraying.
Click To Enlarge

4) Fix Dents, Sand and Prime

Fixing any dents, sanding the entire steel door and priming are all vital steps. The amount of work at this stage depends on the doors condition and if the door is new or previously painted. Painting a steel door is similar to painting a car. Although the doors finish doesn’t need to be as good as a car, every dent and deep scratch will be highlighted after painting.

Repairing a Steel Door and Frame

Use auto body filler, such as Bondo, for dents and deep scratches. Before applying any filler, sand the damaged area with 80-100 grit sandpaper to help with adhesion. Mix the auto body filler according to the manufactures directions and try to slightly overfill the damaged area.

Allow the filler to dry completely then begin sanding to level and smooth it with the surrounding area. A vibrating orbital sander or a palm sander can be used for large areas. Small repairs can be hand sanded using a rigid sanding block and sandpaper.

Start with 100 grit sandpaper to remove most of the excess filler. Be careful not to sand too much. Continue sanding with 150 grit sandpaper, then finish with 220 grit or finer. Feel the repaired area with your fingers to check for ruff edges or deep scratches.

Spray on a small amount of primer to highlight any defects in the repair, an aerosol primer works great. Continue filling and sanding until the repair is flush with the surface and not visible after priming.

The same auto body filler can be used to repair the wood frame.

Repairing wood is basically the same as with the steel door. Remove all loose material, including peeling paint or rotten wood. Sand the area around the repair with 80 grit sandpaper to roughen the surface. Build the repair in layers if over ½ inch deep. Finish sand in the same manner as the steel door.

Finish Sanding

Sanding is a very important step while painting a steel door. After all repairs are finished, the entire door will need to be lightly sanded. This needs to be done on new and previously painted steel doors. Use 120-150 grit sandpaper or a medium-fine sanding sponge.

New steel doors need to be sanded to roughen the surface without causing deep scratches. Previously painted doors can be sanded to remove or lessen brush marks or paint drips. After sanding wipe the entire door with a tack cloth.

Now is a good time to sand the frame. New primed frames need be hand sanded with a medium-fine sanding sponge. Previously painted frames can be hand sanded if in good shape or power sanded with a palm sander to remove loose paint and heavy paint edges.

Priming a Steel Door and Wood Frame

It has been my experience that new doors need to be primed with a universal quick drying oil base primer before painting, such as Zinnser Cover Stain. This is especially true for the wood frame.

Previously painted doors and frames need to be primed only if the type of finish paint is a different type or if the previous finish is in bad shape. Acrylic paints shouldn’t be applied over oil base paint without priming first. Prime all raw wood on the frame as well as any exposed metal.

Use a universal quick drying oil base primer for all your priming needs. An aerosol primer can be used on the door, otherwise use the same procedure as when painting. Choose a good primer as the foundation for the finish paint.

Now is the best time to take a good look at all the work you have done so far. It will be imposable to fix anything once you have started painting. Painting a steel door can be time consuming, but with the preparation as perfect as possible the end result will be much better than the alternative.

5) Painting a Steel Door and Side Lights

Applying the paint is the most satisfying part of painting a steel door, plan on a minimum of one coat of primer and two coats of finish. You have three methods of application to choose from, brushing, rolling or spraying.

* Brushing Steel Doors – Probably the most popular way to paint a steel door requiring the least investment of tools. Achieving a truly smooth finish is difficult with this method, easier if you use a good professional paint brush.
* Rolling a Steel Door – An easy method to master requiring a minimal investment of tools. Excellent control is possible with the right size of roller frame and short nap roller cover. The finish will have a fine even texture from the roller cover, better than brushing in most cases.
* Spraying a Steel Door – If you want a truly smooth finish, using a paint sprayer is the only way to go. This method requires the largest investment of tools and time. Plus, a little experience using this equipment is a must.

The best finish is from spraying; either with an airless paint sprayer or HVLP sprayer but a steel door can be rolled or brushed. Rolling is a great alternative to spraying, producing a very satisfying finish.

On the other hand, brushing can be problematic producing brush marks on the smooth surface. Painting steel doors with a brush is best suited for doors with raised panels; flat doors should be sprayed or rolled. Choose an application method that best suits your abilities and needs.

Steel Door Components
Click To Enlarge

Steel Door Painting Sequence-Paint By The Number
Click To Enlarge

Brushing Direction For Painting a Steel Door
Click To Enlarge

Painting the Door Frame and Sidelights

The frame can be painted while waiting for the door to dry between coats of paint. Typically two different colors and types of paint are used, one for the exterior part and one for the interior. Concentrate on one color at a time.

Begin with the interior color, if the door has been removed from the frame for painting. The interior portion is the most difficult with the door installed. Otherwise, begin with the exterior color so the door will appear finished sooner.

Start painting the upper part first, the header, and then work down one side at a time. If the weather stripping was left installed use a 6-inch drywall knife to act as a shield to protect the weather stripping. Simply insert the knife between the weather stripping and the frame. Moving it down as you brush. Wipe the knife clean several times while brushing to avoid any paint build-up.

The door hinges and striker plate(s) can be protected by carefully covering with masking tape or removed if the door was uninstalled for painting.

Sidelights are typically painted with a brush but can be sprayed with the appropriate masking. The method you choose depends on the final outcome you want and your skill with a paint sprayer.

Steel Door Painting Tips

Although painting a steel door is an easy project for most homeowners, there are a few considerations that can drastically affect the longevity of the finish and the need to refinish sooner. Painting a steel door shouldn’t need to be done for 8-10 years if completed properly.

* The color you choose will affect how long the paint lasts. Dark colors will fade sooner. The worst color is red. Although the front door is a great place for a dramatic statement, a dark or red color will need repainting much sooner.
* Sun exposure will also cause the finish to fade faster. Steel doors can become quite hot when exposed to direct sunlight. Lighter colors with a hint of brown will last longer when exposed to direct sunlight.
* Storm doors can act as a greenhouse. Trapping heat and causing premature paint failure. Try to leave the top storm door window cracked open to ventilate this heat.
* 100% Acrylic paints will out perform traditional oil base paints when used on a steel door. Top quality exterior acrylic house paint is more resistant to the effects of sunlight.
* Seal the kick plate with a small bead of caulk before installation. This will act as a gasket and keep moisture from collecting behind the kick plate. The moisture will cause the paint to fail and rusting of the steel.

NorthJersey.com: Tips for painting doors perfectly
Tips for painting doors perfectly
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Last updated: Sunday August 30, 2009, 1:59 PM
The Record
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DEAR TIM: I have to paint a door. The last time I tried to do this, it turned into a disaster. Paint ended up all over the hardware, no matter how careful I was. Can you coach me on how to paint a door like a professional? It can’t be that hard — or can it?

— Cindy B., Palo Alto, Calif.

DEAR CINDY: I’m just a mortal like you, so don’t think that I have superhuman skills. What I do have is thousands of hours of painting experience. If we went back in time 40 years, you and I would see lots of paint on the hardware of doors I painted, along with other rookie mistakes. But over time, I’ve developed a system that really works well for painting doors. Talk to other painting professionals and they may have their own way to paint doors.

I’m a perfectionist in certain areas of construction. I’m the guy who has to have the screw slot perfectly plumb on electrical cover plates. Paint on hardware is simply unacceptable to me, as are the tiny unpainted lines near hardware where paint can’t cover and the brushstrokes that don’t match the wood grain of the door. For these reasons, I prefer to remove as much hardware as necessary so it’s simply out of the way when I paint. This almost always means removing the door from the jamb as well as removing the hinges.

Removing the door hardware takes a few minutes, but I’ve timed it compared with carefully cutting in with a brush. For me, removing the hardware ends up being faster. Another painter may do just the opposite; your mileage may vary.

Your painting problems in the past may have arisen from the brush you selected. I’ve learned the hard way that it really pays to buy a high-quality brush. What’s more, I strongly prefer to use a tapered brush for all interior trim work. These brushes have a chiseled bristle profile instead of the common profile where all the bristles are the same length. You’ll discover that using a tapered brush gives you fantastic control when painting in corners and cutting in fine edges.

Here are some other tricks: If you want a smooth finish, the door itself must be smooth before you apply the finish coat. If you’re painting a new wood door, sand the door after you prime it. Primers tend to have heavy pigments that fill microscopic voids in the wood. Water-base primers will raise the grain of wood doors slightly. Sanding the dry primer with a 120-grit sanding sponge usually will suffice. Be sure to brush away all dust. If you’re sanding a previously painted door in an older home, be very careful. If the door was painted prior to 1967, there is a good chance there’s lead in the paint. Lead dust is highly toxic.

You may be able to get by with one primer coat and one finish coat of paint, but that will only happen on rare occasions. Typically, you’ll need three coats to get professional results. The key is to apply thinner coats of paint, not a thick coat that might run or sag.

You can use a roller to apply paint to wide-open areas of the door, but I would recommend brushing the paint immediately to give you the look that the paint was brushed on. Some people don’t like the texture created by paint rollers. You’ll have to experiment to see if you like the texture. Be sure to use a roller cover with minimal nap if you decide to do this.

Watch for paint that builds up on the edges of the door. This excess paint can be very problematic when the door hits against the doorjamb. If the door was a tight fit, the paint may cause the door to bind. If you hang the door before the paint cures, the paint on the door can stick to the paint on the jamb and you’ll have a huge mess.

Spray-painting doors can save enormous amounts of time. There are some fantastic spray-painting tools that give you professional results with a very small learning curve. If you have access to a garage where you can spray the doors all at once, you’ll save hours of time.

The trick is to stand the doors up and tack them together with wood strips at the top of the doors. You want to assemble the doors in a contiguous V-pattern much like the sections on an accordion door. Just be sure you can easily get the spray tool into the inside angle where two doors meet. Setting the doors at a 45-degree angle should give you plenty of clearance.

It only takes minutes to clean the spray-paint tool, so don’t let the cleanup process stop you from trying to use this method. Spraying paint indoors in an occupied home with furniture and finished floors can be problematic. I don’t recommend spraying paint indoors in these situations.

More information: AsktheBuilder.com

DEAR TIM: I have to paint a door. The last time I tried to do this, it turned into a disaster. Paint ended up all over the hardware, no matter how careful I was. Can you coach me on how to paint a door like a professional? It can’t be that hard — or can it?
Prevent stray paint blotches and mismatched brushstrokes by taking the door off its hinges and removing knobs and other hardware.

— Cindy B., Palo Alto, Calif.

DEAR CINDY: I’m just a mortal like you, so don’t think that I have superhuman skills. What I do have is thousands of hours of painting experience. If we went back in time 40 years, you and I would see lots of paint on the hardware of doors I painted, along with other rookie mistakes. But over time, I’ve developed a system that really works well for painting doors. Talk to other painting professionals and they may have their own way to paint doors.

I’m a perfectionist in certain areas of construction. I’m the guy who has to have the screw slot perfectly plumb on electrical cover plates. Paint on hardware is simply unacceptable to me, as are the tiny unpainted lines near hardware where paint can’t cover and the brushstrokes that don’t match the wood grain of the door. For these reasons, I prefer to remove as much hardware as necessary so it’s simply out of the way when I paint. This almost always means removing the door from the jamb as well as removing the hinges.

Removing the door hardware takes a few minutes, but I’ve timed it compared with carefully cutting in with a brush. For me, removing the hardware ends up being faster. Another painter may do just the opposite; your mileage may vary.

Your painting problems in the past may have arisen from the brush you selected. I’ve learned the hard way that it really pays to buy a high-quality brush. What’s more, I strongly prefer to use a tapered brush for all interior trim work. These brushes have a chiseled bristle profile instead of the common profile where all the bristles are the same length. You’ll discover that using a tapered brush gives you fantastic control when painting in corners and cutting in fine edges.

Here are some other tricks: If you want a smooth finish, the door itself must be smooth before you apply the finish coat. If you’re painting a new wood door, sand the door after you prime it. Primers tend to have heavy pigments that fill microscopic voids in the wood. Water-base primers will raise the grain of wood doors slightly. Sanding the dry primer with a 120-grit sanding sponge usually will suffice. Be sure to brush away all dust. If you’re sanding a previously painted door in an older home, be very careful. If the door was painted prior to 1967, there is a good chance there’s lead in the paint. Lead dust is highly toxic.

You may be able to get by with one primer coat and one finish coat of paint, but that will only happen on rare occasions. Typically, you’ll need three coats to get professional results. The key is to apply thinner coats of paint, not a thick coat that might run or sag.

You can use a roller to apply paint to wide-open areas of the door, but I would recommend brushing the paint immediately to give you the look that the paint was brushed on. Some people don’t like the texture created by paint rollers. You’ll have to experiment to see if you like the texture. Be sure to use a roller cover with minimal nap if you decide to do this.

Watch for paint that builds up on the edges of the door. This excess paint can be very problematic when the door hits against the doorjamb. If the door was a tight fit, the paint may cause the door to bind. If you hang the door before the paint cures, the paint on the door can stick to the paint on the jamb and you’ll have a huge mess.

Spray-painting doors can save enormous amounts of time. There are some fantastic spray-painting tools that give you professional results with a very small learning curve. If you have access to a garage where you can spray the doors all at once, you’ll save hours of time.

The trick is to stand the doors up and tack them together with wood strips at the top of the doors. You want to assemble the doors in a contiguous V-pattern much like the sections on an accordion door. Just be sure you can easily get the spray tool into the inside angle where two doors meet. Setting the doors at a 45-degree angle should give you plenty of clearance.

It only takes minutes to clean the spray-paint tool, so don’t let the cleanup process stop you from trying to use this method. Spraying paint indoors in an occupied home with furniture and finished floors can be problematic. I don’t recommend spraying paint indoors in these situations.

More information: AsktheBuilder.com

Flush
doors — those with smooth, flat surfaces — are easy to paint with
either a brush or a roller, but doors with inset panels can be tricky.
No matter what type of door you’re dealing with, paint the entire door
without stopping. Otherwise the lap marks may show. Before you start,
remove the doorknobs, the plates behind them, and the latch plate on
the edge of the door.

View Enlarged Image ©2007 Publications International, Ltd. When painting a door, paint the panels first. Then paint the rails, the stiles, and finally the edges, working from top to bottom.

On
ornate doors, start by painting the inset panels at the top of the
door. As with wainscoting, paint all the panels and the molding around
them. Then work your way down from the top to the bottom, painting the
top rail, middle rail, and bottom rail (the horizontals) with
back-and-forth strokes.

Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:

• House Painting:
  Ready to tackle a house painting project? Gather helpful tips on both
  interior and exterior painting in this home improvement article.
• House Painting Tools: Before taking on any painting project, make sure you have the tools you’ll need to do the job well. This article will help.
• Painting Interiors: Learn the essentials of painting walls, doors, and everything inside the house on this page.
• Painting Windows: Find tips on painting various types of window frames in this article, only at HowStuffWorks.

Home Tips : How to Paint Interior Doors
How to Paint Interior Doors
You can paint a door on its hinges if you place a dropcloth beneath it, or you can remove the door from its hinges.

To take off the door, slip out the hinge pins, but don’t unscrew the hinges. Lean the door against a wall with two small blocks under the bottom edge and a third block between the top edge and the wall. You can also lay the door across a pair of sawhorses; if you paint in this manner, do not apply too much paint or it may puddle.

Whether you paint a door on or off its hinges, the painting sequence is exactly the same. Work from top to bottom. For flush doors, roll on the paint with a lint-free cover, and then brush in the direction of the grain. For doors with inset panels, paint in the following order: recesses, panels, horizontal rails, and vertical stiles.

Match the color of the latch edge to the room the door opens into and the color of the hinge edge to the room the door opens away from.

When painting the door casing, begin with the head casing, and then work down the side casings. If the door opens away from the room, paint the jamb and the two surfaces of the door stop visible from the room. If the door opens into the room, paint the jamb and the door side of the door stop. Do not rehang or close the door until all the paint is completely dry.

Paint a Panel Door | DoItYourself.com
Paint a Panel Door
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Paint a Panel Door
by Brian Simkins

Doors are one of the most difficult painted surfaces in your home to keep clean. Dirty handprints from the kids and scuffs at the bottom of the door from shoes are just a few of the things that you will be battling in an effort to keep it clean. If the door is paneled, you have the additional challenge of trying to keep dust and grime from settling into the grooves on the door. Occasionally, you may find that cleaning just isn’t enough and that you need to paint the door in order to keep it looking fresh.

Painting a paneled door can be a bit tricky. It’s not like a flat door where you can just get a roller and paint the entire surface of the door in a few minutes. It is impossible to get the roller into all of the panel corners and angled surfaces. With a few simple steps and a little bit of patience though, you can have your paneled door looking like new with a fresh coat of paint.

Preparing the Door

The first step in any painting project is to prepare the surface to accept the paint. If you don’t do this, then you may end up with peeling or flaking paint in the near future. Use a standard household cleaner to make sure that all of the surface dirt and grease is removed from every surface that you are going to paint. Once you are confident that the door is clean, use a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to lightly scuff all of the flat surfaces. This will help the new paint to stick better.

If you have any paint that is peeling, then you need to use a putty knife to scrape it away before you sand. You can use the sand paper to smooth any rough edges that may be left after scraping. Although this step generally isn’t needed on interior doors, you may find that some scraping is necessary on paneled doors that have a surface exposed to the weather.

Painting

When painting a paneled door, you will definitely need a high quality brush. Some folks also like to use a small roller for the flat surfaces, but you can do the entire door with a brush and still get a quality finish. When selecting the paint, make sure that you get a semi-gloss sheen. Not only is this paint much easier to keep clean than an eggshell or a flat, it is quite a bit more durable.

Begin with the panels. Using your brush, paint the corners and the grooves of the panels in much the same way that you would if you were cutting in the corners of a wall that you were about to paint. Make sure that you don’t get to much paint, as it will gather in the milled grooves and distort the appearance of the door. It is much better to use a light coat and then apply a second if necessary than it is to put on too much paint at the beginning.

After you have cut in the corners of all the panels you can brush over the flat surface of the panels. This is an area where some people like to use their small roller. Just use the roller to apply the paint, and then use the brush to make sure that it is spread evenly. This is the best way to avoid the stippled roller texture that will be left on the smooth surface of the door.

The last portion of the door that you should paint is the stiles and rails. These are the flat surfaces that actually hold the panels into place. With these, as with the flat face of the panels, you can use a roller to apply the pain and then finish the texture with your brush, or you can paint them entirely by hand with the brush. Work slowly around the corners and edges of the panels to make sure that you don’t cause any drips that will flow down into the panels and cause runs.

Painting a paneled door does not require a lot of skill, it just takes a little bit of patience and proper preparation.
Brian Simkins is a freelance writer living in Chicago. He enjoys using his 14 years of home improvement experience to educate and equip new home owners.

How to Paint Doors Quickly | eHow.com
How to Paint Doors Quickly
Contributor
By eHow Contributing Writer
Article Rating: (6 Ratings)

Painting a door can take a long time. If you lay the door on sawhorses for painting, you can only do one side at a time, so painting a single door can take two or more days. If you’re changing colors, it can take you 4 or 5 days to finish a single door. However, there’s a way you can paint several doors in just a day or two.

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Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You’ll Need:

* Wood strips 18 to 24 long
* 2 saw horses
* A few 2 x 4’s to lay on the floor
* Sandpaper (120/150 grit)
* Screwdrivers to remove hinges hinge pins and doorknobs
* Paint brushes, paint roller and paint

1.
Step 1

Find a place to work, like a garage or high-ceiling basement with the floor covered with plastic to keep any dust down. Assemble the tools and other things you’ll need.
2.
Step 2

Remove the hinge pins and take down the door.
3.
Step 3

Using a screwdriver, take the hinges and doorknobs off.
4.
Step 4

Lay the door flat on the sawhorses. Use wood filler to fill any gouges. Allow it to dry, then sand both sides of the door.
5.
Step 5

Follow the same process with any other doors you need to paint.
6.
Step 6

Stand a door upright on the 2 x 4’s that are lying on the floor. Then stand a second door upright to form a V shape (but open a little at the narrow end). The 2 x 4’s will raise the doors off the floor, so you can paint right to the edge.
7.
Step 7

Nailing down through the wooden strips, fasten the two doors together. The wooden strips will stabilize the upright doors so you can work on them without having to worry about them falling over. If you have more doors you need to paint, you can just make the V into a W.
8.
Step 8

Paint (cut in) around the door edges, sides and doorknob openings and then, starting at the top, paint each door. Since you have access to both sides of the door, you can paint the entire door and don’t have to wait for one side to dry to before you can turn it over and paint the other side.
9.
Step 9

Wait for the first coat to dry. Give the doors a light sanding and apply the second coat. If you’re working with latex paint, which dries in a couple of hours, you could several doors in a single day.
10.
Step 10

Wait for the paint to dry thoroughly, then reattach the hinges and knobs. Finally, rehang the door.