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Design*Sponge » Blog Archive » dear d*s: painting brick + color flow between rooms
Today is the first installment of dear d*s: a column where d*s editors and experts tackle design questions sent in by readers. this week i’m tackling two of my favorites and next week we’ll be hearing from an interior designer and an architect about space planning and much more. if you have a question you’d like answered just shoot us an email right here with the title “dear d*s”. if you’re asking a specific interior design question please include a picture of the space in question and your budget for any new projects.

question: dear d*s, could you please discuss painting a brick wall? under what conditions is this a good idea? when would it be an absolute no-no? what colors are up to the task? should it match other walls in the room? are there any tricks to the actual painting process? -alan and jennifer

answer: hi alan and jennifer! after we posted sabrina’s painted brick kitchen makeover we started receiving emails about the do’s and don’ts of painting brick. i consulted with some of my favorite local interior designers and their consensus on painting brick, and matching walls were pretty much the same- it’s a subjective decision. many of them sites real estate as a reason to paint- explaining that red and brown brick is often cited as an eyesore by those seeking to buy or rent homes. on thing they did agree on was that neutral colors are always a safe and classic option. what colors did they love most for brick? grey, white, cream and light coffee colors- all easy neutrals for a modern or traditional color scheme.

as for the how-to, i emailed one of my favorite local handymen to talk about the pitfalls and tricks of home brick painting. here are their steps, broken down:

1. start with a smooth, clean base: before painting, checking the condition of your brick is crucial. any cracks, holes or broken pieces of brick should be filled and treated before moving to the next step. when the brick is fully repaired, make sure it is cleaned thoroughly to remove any dust and debris.

2. keep it dry: brick is difficult to paint because of its porousness. so treating your brick with a water repellent is important. whether you use a water sealant (surface level) or water repellent (which penetrates up to 1/4″) this step will greatly improve the paint’s ability to stick to your brick wall.

3. priming: because of the porous nature of brick, you’ll always need to prime. you’ll want to use a water-based exterior primer. apply several thin coats of primer, allowing at least an hour (for quick-drying primers) in between coats.

4. paint: a lot of people have recommendations for mixing glue into paint, adding hot water and all sorts of other tricks, but the painter and interior designers i consulted all agreed- regular flat paint is always a safe bet for painting interior brick. the process is a long one because of how quickly brick absorbs paint, but if you work in sections and take your time, you’ll end up with a more professional finish.

*tip to consider: paint with a glossy finish will accentuate any irregularities and unevenness in brick, so if you want your wall to disappear into the room, you will want to stick with a flat paint. if you want to show off the brick texture, look for a glossy finish- it will also be easier to clean (which you can do with mild soap and water) and will highlight the finish of the brick.

CLICK HERE for the next question & answer (color flow between rooms) after the jump!

question: dear d*s, i have a small house and i love color on the walls, but i do not want all my rooms the same color. how do you tie different rooms together when the color on the wall changes? -jane

answer: hi jane! this one is a toughy. if you talk to one designer they’ll tell you to go one way, and another designer will tell you another. the interior designers i talked to split straight down the middle so i figured i’d share their advice, along my thoughts on the topic.

1. keep it tonal: many of the designers i spoke with suggested keeping things in the same tone, working from dark to light as you move toward the interior of your home (because interiors usually receive less light). if you want to keep things simple, consider a color you love, or that you and the other people living in your home enjoy, and work with different shades of the color throughout your home. which are the best colors to try for this? if you’re looking to keep things neutral, shades of green, blue and tan work well in a wide range of home styles.

2. carry colors through: the other portion of designers i spoke with felt that if you didn’t want to stick to one color, to consider carrying the color from one room into the next room in an unexpected way- on a ceiling, on the bottom half of a chair rail, on the floor- or even on moldings. you’ll want to make sure this accent color works with the second room’s main color, but accent colors from one room will help you visually travel from one space to another.

3. visual cues: expanding on what the second group of designers said, personally, i focus on trying to make sure there is something in each room that visually ties into the next. that doesn’t need to be a large area of paint though. for example, my living room is grey and my kitchen is electric red/orange. those rooms aren’t terribly at odds, but they’re definitely a big jump in color. so we chose to use wallpaper with orange detailing on a small accent wall that you see when looking from the living room. when you look into the kitchen your eyes notice the tiny bits of orange in the wallpaper and connect visually to the orange walls in the kitchen. the overall effect is a bit of a flow, but in a less obvious way. the same thing can be achieved with colorful lighting, accent pillows, rugs and event artwork on the wall.

*tips on what to avoid: one things that designers mentioned again and again was to avoid playing with colors that clashed in terms of warmth. two different cool colors often work better together than a warm and cool color. if you choose to not focus on “flowing” between rooms (sometimes rules are made to be broken!) keep in mind that loud colors, or colors that clash in terms of warmth may be somewhat distracting to visitors and residents of your home.

Tags: color, exterior, flat, gloss, interior, paint, painting

Clarkston’s landmark house gets a makeover for benefit tour | detnews.com | The Detroit News
Clarkston’s landmark house gets a makeover for benefit tour
Susan R. Pollack / Detroit News Design Writer

The impressive white Greek Revival house with Ionic pillars on North Main Street boasts a fascinating history dating to the 1840s, when Clarkston’s founding family opened a gristmill on the pond out back.

The Clark House, as it’s known, also has what interior designers like to call “great bones.”

But those bones, along with the home’s aging wood floors, grew creaky over time, weighed down by dark, heavy drapes, musty rooms with anemic white walls and an awkward, outdated kitchen. The house stood empty and for sale for four years.
Enter Kevin Harrison, a Clarkston interior designer who couldn’t help but notice the once-grande dame’s fading glory — and vast potential — each time he passed by en route to his studio/shop, KH Home, a few blocks down Main Street.

Drawing upon his stint as a designer in Chicago, Harrison mounted a community effort to restore the house, enlisting the aid of more than a dozen design colleagues in northern Oakland and southern Genesee counties.

Joined by 15 interior design students from Baker College of Auburn Hills, the designers poured considerable talent, sweat equity and even tears (when leaking pipes damaged a freshly done powder room) into the project, transforming the dowager into the 2009 Clarkston Designer Showcase House.

The spiffed-up showhouse makes its debut today, from 7 to 11 p.m., with a strolling dinner and silent auction in a tent overlooking the old Mill Pond. Admission to the fundraiser is $75.

The show house also will be open for public tours for nine days, Saturday through Oct. 4, for a $10 admission fee.

The ambitious project benefits Clarkston SCAMP, a summer camp for special needs children and young adults. And SCAMP supporters couldn’t be happier with the 15-room makeover.

“This house screamed, ‘Help me!’ ” declared Donna Clancy, director of fundraising.

Her assistant, Jackie Clancy, visited recently, as volunteers scurried to complete the finishing touches, and marveled at what she described as the home’s “Cinderella” transformation.

“It needed so much work it made me cringe,” she says. “But the result is just amazing — it’s gone from almost uninhabitable to a magnificent, stately home with all the work done professionally. I believe there’s a room in this house that everyone will enjoy. With so many styles, it’s going to fit many tastes.”

Rooms range from the three-season sunroom done up by Baker students in white wicker furniture and shades of robin-egg blue and coral, to a show-stopping upstairs bedroom that’s a Parisian fantasy in pink. It’s adorned with layers of accessories, including vintage lace bras and hats, silk negligees, ballet slippers, boas, black opera gloves, Schiaparelli boxes and even jars of pink and white marshmallows the designer, Teri Guelde of Clarkston’s Frank & Me, found on a recent trip to Costa Rica.

“Probably more than any other room, this one is all about accessories,” says Harrison, who coordinated the show house project. “Teri has a great eye for feminine detail.”

And he’s thrilled to report that the makeover was so successful that the house, which had languished for so long on the market, has sold, with new owners completing the purchase papers this week.

Most of the showhouse designers kept their rooms true to period, decorating with antiques or traditional pieces and dipping into a palette of earthy Benjamin Moore historic paint colors.

But Harrison chose a different route for his designated space, doing the expansive living room in a style he describes as “a more modern interpretation tweaked for today’s lifestyle.”

His design makes a splash with contemporary art, Asian accent pieces and 44 yards of coral silk draperies that frame a series of tall windows. Several overlook the front porch where black-stained wood chairs by Moon Valley Rustic Furniture of Clarkston invite guests to pause and sit a spell.

Other living room conversation pieces include a massive, 400-year-old Chinese wood door-turned-table that sits on a Tibetan silk rug, and a neo-classical temple cabinet whose creased mahogany sides echo the columns on the front of the house. A mural in the adjacent entryway also references the exterior columns, adding interest — as does a clutch of walking sticks — to the sprawling hall-space.

Hanging from the living room’s 14-foot ceilings are two turn-of-the-19th-century Waterford crystal chandeliers that likely graced the home when a young, mail-order bride from Ireland was married there. Homeowners learned of the nuptials when she returned many years later to visit the site of her wedding.

Marble mantelpieces in the living and dining rooms also share a bit of U.S. pioneer history. Shipped from Italy, they traveled through the Great Lakes and then on horse-and-buggy flatbed over dirt roads to the village of Clarkston.

A wood beam from a onetime barn on the property adds a rustic touch to the kitchen, where Clarkston designer Pam Bytner’s granite-topped island, built-in range, bespoke cabinets, expanded pantry and display shelves breathe new life into the house. A square antique oak table with comfy, modified wing chairs in the breakfast nook offers views of Mill Pond.

The dramatic dining room by Lauren Brasile Interiors of Ortonville features an old-style square-inlay wood floor and custom-made, black-stained oak sideboard; it’s fronted by a silver charger and topped with a silver tea service and candlesticks. A brocaded gray duvet cover doubles as a tablecloth on a French-style beechwood table set with black crystal, white china and silver accents.

From the tastefully appointed nursery and hallway reading nook to the gentleman’s parlor and beyond, the show house brims with many other creative touches and design surprises guaranteed to inspire visitors and put them in touch with fresh ideas, designers, resources and trends, Harrison says.

“We’re a little outside the typical Birmingham/Bloomfield Hills (design) core,” he observes. “This house showcases new talent that people familiar with other show houses have not yet experienced. Visitors will find we have a very vibrant design community out here.”

Tags: color, exterior, Exterior Painting, flat, interior, paint

flat chat » Blog Archive » Ceiling the deal
QUESTION: I have a flat built in the 60s, which has an awful looking vermiculite ceiling (a bit like kitty litter). I would like to remove it, cover it (suspended ceiling) or paint it. I find it difficult to get consistent information on it, some say it’s a fire retardant and it shouldn’t be painted. Others say that it can be. Do I need to obtain Owners Corporation it before I do anything? – Underwhelmed, Randwick
ANSWER: Since the ceiling is common property and the vermiculite – a roughcast “popcorn” textured material – may be part of the fire retardation, you should ask your executive committee before you do anything.
However, it should be very easy to get the effect you desire without compromising safety. A fire retardant paint would be the easiest and most obvious answer, with a fire-proof “dropped” ceiling another possibility.

Tags: flat, paint

Painting a Steel Door
Painting a Steel Door

Often there is some confusion about painting a steel door. Many homeowners have heard about the problems associated with painting pre-primed steel doors. Some of these problems are excessive peeling of the paint on the door or frame and difficulty to hide brush strokes on a smooth surface.

Most problems with painting a metal door are preventable and stem from lack of knowledge about the factory primer and the proper steps involved when painting a steel door. Another factor that will affect the life of the paint is the color and the use of a storm door, follow the manufactures recommendations.

Insulated steel entry doors are a great life long purchase and if painted correctly can be virtually maintenance free for many years.

General Procedures for Painting a Steel Door

Most of the work involved when painting steel doors is with the preparation. This is true even for a new, unpainted, steel door. The beauty and longevity of your steel door is dependant on the following procedures. These apply to the frame and trim as well.

1) Remove Hardware and Weather Stripping

No matter which painting method you use, remove all the locking hardware from the door and frame, including strike plates. Brushing around these items is difficult and time consuming. Other items to be removed can be kick plates and doorknockers. Remove the hinges if you are painting a steel door detached from the frame.
Now remove the weather stripping. Many door manufactures have removable weather stripping. It simply pulls out of a grove in the frame. Remember how it came out for reinstallation and store in a safe place.

If the weather stripping cannot be removed, stapled or secured in place, you can use a drywall knife to act as a shield while brushing the frame and trim. Otherwise apply masking tape for protection while painting.

2) Remove Excess Window Glazing

Doors with windows or sidelights need to have the excess glazing removed prior to painting. This caulking material will have emerged from under the window frame; can be a sticky compound or silicone caulk.

Use a new single edge razor blade and score the glazing next to the frame. Be careful not to cut the frame. Now remove the excess glazing by holding the blade perpendicular and close to the frame. Carefully scrape the glazing loose.

After the glazing is removed wipe the area clean with a solvent to remove any remaining film. Use denatured alcohol for silicone and mineral spirits if the glazing is sticky.

3) Clean and Mask

A clean surface is important while painting a steel door. Pay special attention to greasy fingerprints and general grime. Any mild cleaner can be used, rinse well after cleaning. Another cleaning method is to wipe the steel door and sidelights with a clean rag saturated with denatured alcohol. This will remove most types of surface contamination.

After the door is cleaned and dry, mask the glass and any other items not to be painted. The amount of masking depends on the painting method you use.

Masking a window before spraying a steel door.
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Steel door masked and ready for spraying.
Click To Enlarge

4) Fix Dents, Sand and Prime

Fixing any dents, sanding the entire steel door and priming are all vital steps. The amount of work at this stage depends on the doors condition and if the door is new or previously painted. Painting a steel door is similar to painting a car. Although the doors finish doesn’t need to be as good as a car, every dent and deep scratch will be highlighted after painting.

Repairing a Steel Door and Frame

Use auto body filler, such as Bondo, for dents and deep scratches. Before applying any filler, sand the damaged area with 80-100 grit sandpaper to help with adhesion. Mix the auto body filler according to the manufactures directions and try to slightly overfill the damaged area.

Allow the filler to dry completely then begin sanding to level and smooth it with the surrounding area. A vibrating orbital sander or a palm sander can be used for large areas. Small repairs can be hand sanded using a rigid sanding block and sandpaper.

Start with 100 grit sandpaper to remove most of the excess filler. Be careful not to sand too much. Continue sanding with 150 grit sandpaper, then finish with 220 grit or finer. Feel the repaired area with your fingers to check for ruff edges or deep scratches.

Spray on a small amount of primer to highlight any defects in the repair, an aerosol primer works great. Continue filling and sanding until the repair is flush with the surface and not visible after priming.

The same auto body filler can be used to repair the wood frame.

Repairing wood is basically the same as with the steel door. Remove all loose material, including peeling paint or rotten wood. Sand the area around the repair with 80 grit sandpaper to roughen the surface. Build the repair in layers if over ½ inch deep. Finish sand in the same manner as the steel door.

Finish Sanding

Sanding is a very important step while painting a steel door. After all repairs are finished, the entire door will need to be lightly sanded. This needs to be done on new and previously painted steel doors. Use 120-150 grit sandpaper or a medium-fine sanding sponge.

New steel doors need to be sanded to roughen the surface without causing deep scratches. Previously painted doors can be sanded to remove or lessen brush marks or paint drips. After sanding wipe the entire door with a tack cloth.

Now is a good time to sand the frame. New primed frames need be hand sanded with a medium-fine sanding sponge. Previously painted frames can be hand sanded if in good shape or power sanded with a palm sander to remove loose paint and heavy paint edges.

Priming a Steel Door and Wood Frame

It has been my experience that new doors need to be primed with a universal quick drying oil base primer before painting, such as Zinnser Cover Stain. This is especially true for the wood frame.

Previously painted doors and frames need to be primed only if the type of finish paint is a different type or if the previous finish is in bad shape. Acrylic paints shouldn’t be applied over oil base paint without priming first. Prime all raw wood on the frame as well as any exposed metal.

Use a universal quick drying oil base primer for all your priming needs. An aerosol primer can be used on the door, otherwise use the same procedure as when painting. Choose a good primer as the foundation for the finish paint.

Now is the best time to take a good look at all the work you have done so far. It will be imposable to fix anything once you have started painting. Painting a steel door can be time consuming, but with the preparation as perfect as possible the end result will be much better than the alternative.

5) Painting a Steel Door and Side Lights

Applying the paint is the most satisfying part of painting a steel door, plan on a minimum of one coat of primer and two coats of finish. You have three methods of application to choose from, brushing, rolling or spraying.

* Brushing Steel Doors – Probably the most popular way to paint a steel door requiring the least investment of tools. Achieving a truly smooth finish is difficult with this method, easier if you use a good professional paint brush.
* Rolling a Steel Door – An easy method to master requiring a minimal investment of tools. Excellent control is possible with the right size of roller frame and short nap roller cover. The finish will have a fine even texture from the roller cover, better than brushing in most cases.
* Spraying a Steel Door – If you want a truly smooth finish, using a paint sprayer is the only way to go. This method requires the largest investment of tools and time. Plus, a little experience using this equipment is a must.

The best finish is from spraying; either with an airless paint sprayer or HVLP sprayer but a steel door can be rolled or brushed. Rolling is a great alternative to spraying, producing a very satisfying finish.

On the other hand, brushing can be problematic producing brush marks on the smooth surface. Painting steel doors with a brush is best suited for doors with raised panels; flat doors should be sprayed or rolled. Choose an application method that best suits your abilities and needs.

Steel Door Components
Click To Enlarge

Steel Door Painting Sequence-Paint By The Number
Click To Enlarge

Brushing Direction For Painting a Steel Door
Click To Enlarge

Painting the Door Frame and Sidelights

The frame can be painted while waiting for the door to dry between coats of paint. Typically two different colors and types of paint are used, one for the exterior part and one for the interior. Concentrate on one color at a time.

Begin with the interior color, if the door has been removed from the frame for painting. The interior portion is the most difficult with the door installed. Otherwise, begin with the exterior color so the door will appear finished sooner.

Start painting the upper part first, the header, and then work down one side at a time. If the weather stripping was left installed use a 6-inch drywall knife to act as a shield to protect the weather stripping. Simply insert the knife between the weather stripping and the frame. Moving it down as you brush. Wipe the knife clean several times while brushing to avoid any paint build-up.

The door hinges and striker plate(s) can be protected by carefully covering with masking tape or removed if the door was uninstalled for painting.

Sidelights are typically painted with a brush but can be sprayed with the appropriate masking. The method you choose depends on the final outcome you want and your skill with a paint sprayer.

Steel Door Painting Tips

Although painting a steel door is an easy project for most homeowners, there are a few considerations that can drastically affect the longevity of the finish and the need to refinish sooner. Painting a steel door shouldn’t need to be done for 8-10 years if completed properly.

* The color you choose will affect how long the paint lasts. Dark colors will fade sooner. The worst color is red. Although the front door is a great place for a dramatic statement, a dark or red color will need repainting much sooner.
* Sun exposure will also cause the finish to fade faster. Steel doors can become quite hot when exposed to direct sunlight. Lighter colors with a hint of brown will last longer when exposed to direct sunlight.
* Storm doors can act as a greenhouse. Trapping heat and causing premature paint failure. Try to leave the top storm door window cracked open to ventilate this heat.
* 100% Acrylic paints will out perform traditional oil base paints when used on a steel door. Top quality exterior acrylic house paint is more resistant to the effects of sunlight.
* Seal the kick plate with a small bead of caulk before installation. This will act as a gasket and keep moisture from collecting behind the kick plate. The moisture will cause the paint to fail and rusting of the steel.

Tags: brush, color, exterior, flat, interior, paint, Paint Failure, painting, Painting Doors, roller, simi

Tips for Painting Exterior Door Surfaces – Home Remodeling Ideas at ReliableRemodeler.com
Tips for Painting Exterior Door Surfaces
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Painting exterior door surfaces is an easy project for most homeowners. It can usually be completed in one weekend and sometimes even in a single day. The amount of time it will take depends on the type of door, the amount of surface preparation required, and other issues or problems that sometimes pop up during a home repair project. We’ll focus on the two most common types of exterior doors – steel and wood. The processes are similar, but not exactly the same.

When painting exterior door surfaces of a steel door, pay close attention to the kind of paint that is already on the door. If the existing paint is oil based then you can apply either oil based or latex paint for the new coat. However, if the existing paint is latex paint, you must use latex paint for the new coat because oil based paint. If you try to use oil based paint it will not work. Most painting experts recommend that you use the highest quality 100% acrylic latex paint possible because it is the most durable and can be applied over any type of existing paint.

Painting Exterior Door

Surface preparation is the next step, because if the surface is not clean and free of debris or loose paint then the new coat will not adhere properly. You also need to rough up the surface of the old door with sandpaper to get the best bond between the new paint and the old surface.

With wood doors, you have two basic choices to make – do you want to paint it or stain it? If you choose stain, then the surface should be cleaned, sanded, and smooth before applying stain. If you choose paint then the surface must also be prepared according to the aforementioned way. It is also essential that any old paint be scraped off. Depending on the color you are applying and the old color already on the door, you may need to put a coat of primer on first. This is nearly always an extra step that is well worth the time it takes, because the top color will look better and the paint will be more durable over time. Regardless of the type of door you have – wood or steel – the easiest method of painting exterior door surfaces is to lay the door flat on two saw horses.

Tags: color, exterior, flat, paint, painting, Painting Doors, simi

Flush
doors — those with smooth, flat surfaces — are easy to paint with
either a brush or a roller, but doors with inset panels can be tricky.
No matter what type of door you’re dealing with, paint the entire door
without stopping. Otherwise the lap marks may show. Before you start,
remove the doorknobs, the plates behind them, and the latch plate on
the edge of the door.

View Enlarged Image ©2007 Publications International, Ltd. When painting a door, paint the panels first. Then paint the rails, the stiles, and finally the edges, working from top to bottom.

On
ornate doors, start by painting the inset panels at the top of the
door. As with wainscoting, paint all the panels and the molding around
them. Then work your way down from the top to the bottom, painting the
top rail, middle rail, and bottom rail (the horizontals) with
back-and-forth strokes.

Next, paint the vertical stiles (the
sides) with up-and-down strokes. If you’re painting both sides of the
door, repeat this procedure. If you’re painting only one side, paint
the top edge of the door with a light coat. Over time, paint can build
up on the top edge and cause the door to stick. Finally, paint the
door’s hinge edge and latch edge.

Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:

• House Painting:
  Ready to tackle a house painting project? Gather helpful tips on both
  interior and exterior painting in this home improvement article.
• House Painting Tools: Before taking on any painting project, make sure you have the tools you’ll need to do the job well. This article will help.
• Painting Interiors: Learn the essentials of painting walls, doors, and everything inside the house on this page.
• Painting Windows: Find tips on painting various types of window frames in this article, only at HowStuffWorks.

Tags: brush, exterior, flat, interior, paint, painting, Painting Doors, roller

Paint a Panel Door | DoItYourself.com
Paint a Panel Door
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Paint a Panel Door
by Brian Simkins

Doors are one of the most difficult painted surfaces in your home to keep clean. Dirty handprints from the kids and scuffs at the bottom of the door from shoes are just a few of the things that you will be battling in an effort to keep it clean. If the door is paneled, you have the additional challenge of trying to keep dust and grime from settling into the grooves on the door. Occasionally, you may find that cleaning just isn’t enough and that you need to paint the door in order to keep it looking fresh.

Painting a paneled door can be a bit tricky. It’s not like a flat door where you can just get a roller and paint the entire surface of the door in a few minutes. It is impossible to get the roller into all of the panel corners and angled surfaces. With a few simple steps and a little bit of patience though, you can have your paneled door looking like new with a fresh coat of paint.

Preparing the Door

The first step in any painting project is to prepare the surface to accept the paint. If you don’t do this, then you may end up with peeling or flaking paint in the near future. Use a standard household cleaner to make sure that all of the surface dirt and grease is removed from every surface that you are going to paint. Once you are confident that the door is clean, use a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to lightly scuff all of the flat surfaces. This will help the new paint to stick better.

If you have any paint that is peeling, then you need to use a putty knife to scrape it away before you sand. You can use the sand paper to smooth any rough edges that may be left after scraping. Although this step generally isn’t needed on interior doors, you may find that some scraping is necessary on paneled doors that have a surface exposed to the weather.

Painting

When painting a paneled door, you will definitely need a high quality brush. Some folks also like to use a small roller for the flat surfaces, but you can do the entire door with a brush and still get a quality finish. When selecting the paint, make sure that you get a semi-gloss sheen. Not only is this paint much easier to keep clean than an eggshell or a flat, it is quite a bit more durable.

Begin with the panels. Using your brush, paint the corners and the grooves of the panels in much the same way that you would if you were cutting in the corners of a wall that you were about to paint. Make sure that you don’t get to much paint, as it will gather in the milled grooves and distort the appearance of the door. It is much better to use a light coat and then apply a second if necessary than it is to put on too much paint at the beginning.

After you have cut in the corners of all the panels you can brush over the flat surface of the panels. This is an area where some people like to use their small roller. Just use the roller to apply the paint, and then use the brush to make sure that it is spread evenly. This is the best way to avoid the stippled roller texture that will be left on the smooth surface of the door.

The last portion of the door that you should paint is the stiles and rails. These are the flat surfaces that actually hold the panels into place. With these, as with the flat face of the panels, you can use a roller to apply the pain and then finish the texture with your brush, or you can paint them entirely by hand with the brush. Work slowly around the corners and edges of the panels to make sure that you don’t cause any drips that will flow down into the panels and cause runs.

Painting a paneled door does not require a lot of skill, it just takes a little bit of patience and proper preparation.
Brian Simkins is a freelance writer living in Chicago. He enjoys using his 14 years of home improvement experience to educate and equip new home owners.

Tags: brush, flat, gloss, interior, paint, painting, Painting Doors, roller

How to Paint Doors Quickly | eHow.com
How to Paint Doors Quickly
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By eHow Contributing Writer
Article Rating: (6 Ratings)

Painting a door can take a long time. If you lay the door on sawhorses for painting, you can only do one side at a time, so painting a single door can take two or more days. If you’re changing colors, it can take you 4 or 5 days to finish a single door. However, there’s a way you can paint several doors in just a day or two.

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Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You’ll Need:

* Wood strips 18 to 24 long
* 2 saw horses
* A few 2 x 4’s to lay on the floor
* Sandpaper (120/150 grit)
* Screwdrivers to remove hinges hinge pins and doorknobs
* Paint brushes, paint roller and paint

1.
Step 1

Find a place to work, like a garage or high-ceiling basement with the floor covered with plastic to keep any dust down. Assemble the tools and other things you’ll need.
2.
Step 2

Remove the hinge pins and take down the door.
3.
Step 3

Using a screwdriver, take the hinges and doorknobs off.
4.
Step 4

Lay the door flat on the sawhorses. Use wood filler to fill any gouges. Allow it to dry, then sand both sides of the door.
5.
Step 5

Follow the same process with any other doors you need to paint.
6.
Step 6

Stand a door upright on the 2 x 4’s that are lying on the floor. Then stand a second door upright to form a V shape (but open a little at the narrow end). The 2 x 4’s will raise the doors off the floor, so you can paint right to the edge.
7.
Step 7

Nailing down through the wooden strips, fasten the two doors together. The wooden strips will stabilize the upright doors so you can work on them without having to worry about them falling over. If you have more doors you need to paint, you can just make the V into a W.
8.
Step 8

Paint (cut in) around the door edges, sides and doorknob openings and then, starting at the top, paint each door. Since you have access to both sides of the door, you can paint the entire door and don’t have to wait for one side to dry to before you can turn it over and paint the other side.
9.
Step 9

Wait for the first coat to dry. Give the doors a light sanding and apply the second coat. If you’re working with latex paint, which dries in a couple of hours, you could several doors in a single day.
10.
Step 10

Wait for the paint to dry thoroughly, then reattach the hinges and knobs. Finally, rehang the door.

Tags: brush, color, flat, paint, painting, Painting Doors, roller

Paint a Panel Door | DoItYourself.com
Paint a Panel Door
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Paint a Panel Door
by Brian Simkins

Doors are one of the most difficult painted surfaces in your home to keep clean. Dirty handprints from the kids and scuffs at the bottom of the door from shoes are just a few of the things that you will be battling in an effort to keep it clean. If the door is paneled, you have the additional challenge of trying to keep dust and grime from settling into the grooves on the door. Occasionally, you may find that cleaning just isn’t enough and that you need to paint the door in order to keep it looking fresh.

Painting a paneled door can be a bit tricky. It’s not like a flat door where you can just get a roller and paint the entire surface of the door in a few minutes. It is impossible to get the roller into all of the panel corners and angled surfaces. With a few simple steps and a little bit of patience though, you can have your paneled door looking like new with a fresh coat of paint.

Preparing the Door

The first step in any painting project is to prepare the surface to accept the paint. If you don’t do this, then you may end up with peeling or flaking paint in the near future. Use a standard household cleaner to make sure that all of the surface dirt and grease is removed from every surface that you are going to paint. Once you are confident that the door is clean, use a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to lightly scuff all of the flat surfaces. This will help the new paint to stick better.

If you have any paint that is peeling, then you need to use a putty knife to scrape it away before you sand. You can use the sand paper to smooth any rough edges that may be left after scraping. Although this step generally isn’t needed on interior doors, you may find that some scraping is necessary on paneled doors that have a surface exposed to the weather.

Painting

When painting a paneled door, you will definitely need a high quality brush. Some folks also like to use a small roller for the flat surfaces, but you can do the entire door with a brush and still get a quality finish. When selecting the paint, make sure that you get a semi-gloss sheen. Not only is this paint much easier to keep clean than an eggshell or a flat, it is quite a bit more durable.

Begin with the panels. Using your brush, paint the corners and the grooves of the panels in much the same way that you would if you were cutting in the corners of a wall that you were about to paint. Make sure that you don’t get to much paint, as it will gather in the milled grooves and distort the appearance of the door. It is much better to use a light coat and then apply a second if necessary than it is to put on too much paint at the beginning.

After you have cut in the corners of all the panels you can brush over the flat surface of the panels. This is an area where some people like to use their small roller. Just use the roller to apply the paint, and then use the brush to make sure that it is spread evenly. This is the best way to avoid the stippled roller texture that will be left on the smooth surface of the door.

The last portion of the door that you should paint is the stiles and rails. These are the flat surfaces that actually hold the panels into place. With these, as with the flat face of the panels, you can use a roller to apply the pain and then finish the texture with your brush, or you can paint them entirely by hand with the brush. Work slowly around the corners and edges of the panels to make sure that you don’t cause any drips that will flow down into the panels and cause runs.

Painting a paneled door does not require a lot of skill, it just takes a little bit of patience and proper preparation.
Brian Simkins is a freelance writer living in Chicago. He enjoys using his 14 years of home improvement experience to educate and equip new home owners.

Tags: brush, flat, gloss, interior, paint, painting, Painting Doors, roller

Painting Doors

The door is a main focal point of any space and painting doors can have a dramatic effect on the overall look of a room’s decor. Many doors see a lot of use and often abuse. Properly painting doors can take care of the scratches and dings from everyday life.

Painting interior doors can be accomplished with the door removed or still hanging. This depends on your skill level when cutting in with a paint brush, unpainted or previously painted and the overall condition of the door. Plus, will the door be sprayed or painted with a brush or roller?

All of these points and the doors style will influence all decisions made concerning painting doors.

Two general door styles exist, flat and paneled. Plus different types of materials can be used for their construction. Typically we encounter solid wood, solid Masonite and hollow core doors.

* New, unpainted, solid wood doors can be paneled or slab, smooth. All unpainted doors must receive a coat of primer prior to painting. Oil base enamel under coater works best, it sands smooth and accepts any type of finish paint.
* Solid Masonite doors are available in many styles but typically have the look of a smooth paneled door. Although usually pre-primed at the factory an additional coat of enamel under coater is recommended.
* Hollow core doors are very common and are either slab or paneled. Two different materials are used in their construction, wood veneer and Masonite. Wood veneer doors are typically a smooth slab, while Masonite is paneled, often has an embossed wood grain effect.

Basic Preparation Procedures

Before you begin to paint a door, remove the doorknob and striker plate, plus any other non-paintable accessories. Clear away any obstructions and limit its use during the door painting process. New, unpainted, wood doors require sanding before priming and painting. Hand sanding with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper works well. Check the entire door for scratches dings and dents. All imperfections that can’t be removed through sanding will have to be dealt with after priming.

Clean all previously painted doors before any scraping or sanding. Cleaning will remove any residual oils left behind from repeatedly touching the door.

A liquid sander can be used in place of soap and water if the door doesn’t appear dirty; Paso is the product I use. Simple mild soap and water will work fine for mildly dirty surfaces. Heavily soiled surfaces will need TSP, trisodium phosphate. After using soaps and water, precondition the doors surface with a liquid sander, Paso is the product I use.

Remove all loose, blistered or chipped paint by carefully using a paint scraper. Apply even pressure with both hands. Be careful do not gouge the wood. Repair all dents, cracks and surface imperfections before finish sanding. Any imperfection on the surface of a smooth door will be enhanced by paint.

Bondo, auto body filler, or regular spackle will work best for most imperfections. Auto body filler will provide a very hard and smooth repair. Mix small amounts of Bondo at a time according to instructions. Sand ruff paint edges smooth with 80 grit sandpaper and continue sanding with 120 grit. Finish sanding with 180 or 220 grit to produce a smooth surface without deep sanding marks. For large areas use a palm or orbital sander.

Embossed Masonite doors offer many unique challenges. These doors cannot be sanded as with other types of doors. Tools that can be used are small brass wire brushes, nylon brushes and steel wool. Any patched area will stand out. While the spackle or Bondo is soft use a toothpick to add wood grain to a patched area. This is very difficult to do; you will need to be inventive.

After all patching and sanding, prime the entire door with oil base enamel under coater. Apply in the same order as with painting doors with a brush. Allow the primer to fully dry, this could take as little as 4 hours or as much as 24 hours. Hand sand the entire door with a fine sanding sponge or 220 sandpaper. Remove the dust with a shop vacuum and tack rags. A smooth clean surface before painting will produce a smooth finish.

Painting Doors Removed from the Frame

Painting doors can be easier when removed from the frame and either placed against a wall or on saw horses. This will allow easy access to the frame for preparation and painting. Plus all the door edges will be accessible.

* Pull the hinge pins and remove the door. This will be easier with two people.
* Place on sawhorses or lean against a wall. If extensive sanding and possible repair is needed use sawhorses. It is much easier to apply pressure on sandpaper when the door is at waist height.
* Remove the hinge leaves from the door and the frame. No need to mask or risk applying paint to the hinges.
* After sanding, screws can be installed at the 4 corners and the door suspended on the sawhorses. Use 2 ½ or 3 inch drywall screws driven half way into the door’s top and bottom edges. Make sure the screws are installed far enough to hold the weight of the door.

Add extra screws if needed. This will allow both sides of the doors to be painted at the same time. This method works great for light, hollow core, doors. For heavier doors and more control use Door Deckers, brackets that allow maneuverability with the sawhorse and easy stacking.

Another option is for spray-painting multiple doors at one time. The best method I have found is connecting each door to one another using inexpensive angle brackets, 6-8 inch work great. Attach the brackets with drywall screws and lift each door off the drop cloth with wood blocks.

Connect multable doors with angle brackets.
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Doors ready for spraying.
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Painting Doors Installed on the Frame

If you are painting doors while installed on the frame, care and skill with a brush is needed. This will allow the door and frame to be painted in one session without worrying about re-hanging the door.

Protect the hinges using blue painter’s masking tape. Masking hinges is very easy. Begin by applying blue, low adhesion, masking tape over both halves of the hinge. Run the tape over the hinge onto the door edge. Use a sharp razor knife to trim away the excess tape following the outline of the hinge.

Masking the hinges isn’t necessary if you have a steady hand and good brush.

Protect the floor from paint drips and splatters with a piece of cardboard or small drop cloth. Tape and masking paper can be used around the frame and casing.

Applying the Finish Paint

You have several options concerning the paint application. This includes brushing, rolling and spraying the finish paint. Before the paint can be applied it needs to be conditioned. For brushing, rolling or spraying use a little paint conditioner, Flotrol for water base paints or Penitrol for oil base paints. Add enough to allow the paint to flow on the surface and not be sticky. Follow the manufactures instructions.

Painting Doors with a Paint Brush

Painting sequence for a paneled interior door.
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To minimize brush marks while painting doors use a good professional paint brush plus apply the finish in sections and in sequence. The best sequence is edges, beveled areas and panels then the styles and rails. Begin at the top and work your way to the bottom.

The components of paneled doors are important and need to be understood. The vertical areas are called “styles”. The horizontal areas are “rails”.

Painting paneled doors must be done in a way that defines the look of these areas. Whenever the styles and rails meet, a straight line must be maintained. Always brush in the direction of the wood grain.

First brush all the edges. Quickly remove any thick paint on the sharp edges of the door. If using sawhorses, don’t worry about the screws on the top and bottom. These areas won’t be seen.

Brushing the beveled areas on doors.

The second step is the beveled areas around the panels. A 1½-inch brush works well on these areas, depending on the style of the door.

Brushing panel flat areas.

Next, paint the panel flats. Use full-length brush strokes immediately after applying the paint to the panels. A 2-2½ brush will be needed for these large flat areas.

The rails and styles are last when painting doors with a brush. Begin with the top rail. Then apply the paint to the styles from the top to the next rail. Alternate between the rails and styles until you your finished.

Brushing paint on door rail. Brushing paint on door style.

Don’t try to touch-up the paint when it’s wet. Trying to recoat any areas now will damage the look of the paint. Allow the paint to fully dry then repaint any areas that require another coat.

Painting Doors with a Roller

A roller can be used while painting doors and is a good option for flat slab doors or if you have several doors to paint, and not a lot of time to get the job done. The best paint roller to use is a minnie or hot dog roller with a short nap cover. These rollers are similar to mohair rollers but very skinny and only 3-6 inches in length.
Rolling door.

Painting doors with a roller offers you two choices; leave the fine roller stipple on the door or lay-off with a brush. Your choice will be a matter of personal preference and choice of finish paint.

Oil base paints flow on a surface more than Acrylics; therefore brush marks will be less defined. Conditioning the paint will produce the best look no matter which type is used or if the door is “laid off” with a brush.

A brush is still needed for cutting in the edges or next to the hinges. If you decide to lay-off the rolled paint with a brush follow the same sequence as when brushing a door.

Rolling a door will take a little practice. Try to apply the paint evenly and not to heavy. It is best to apply two thin coats instead of a single thick one. Work the roller carefully so no roller marks or lines from the rollers edge are remaining.

Spray Painting Doors

Spraying a door is the only option for a truly smooth surface without brush marks or roller stipple. Plus with the use of an airless or HVLP sprayer many doors can be painted in very little time.
Sraying a door with HVLP sprayer.

Painting doors with a sprayer will be a bit messy with overspray being a major concern. A garage or similar building will be needed. The only time spraying doors can be done in a house is with new construction.

The door needs to be properly prepared, same as all doors. Except a perfectly smooth surface, free of defects, is necessary for the best finish. Paint exaggerates all imperfections.

The easiest sprayer to use is a HVLP. This spray system will give you great control over the amount of paint applied and do it with less overspray. Unfortunately, this sprayer is slower than an airless, but using an HVLP spray gun is simple.

Airless paint sprayers can apply a lot of paint very quickly, so painting doors using an airless will require precision and control. Choosing a small spray tip and conditioning the paint will give you better control and a finer finish. A fine finish spray tip will reduce the amount of paint that is applied and proper conditioning will allow the use of lower pressure, providing better control.

A final consideration is overspray. Not only can this stuff travel and land everywhere, it will ruin adjacent doors. Overspray landing on a wet or tacky door will cause a finish similar to fine sandpaper.

One way to stop excessive overspray from landing on adjacent doors is by carefully using cardboard shields. While applying the paint hold the shield on the edge nearest the spray gun and in the direction of the overspray, difficult but possible with practice. This is more of a problem with airless sprayers.

Considerations When Painting Doors

* Keep the area clean and minimize dust while painting doors.
* If the door separates two rooms with different door colors, paint the edges to match the side that is visible when the door is open. The hinge edge matches the room the door swings from and the latch edge matches the room the door swings into.

Tags: brush, color, flat, interior, paint, painting, Painting Doors, roller, simi