Posts Tagged ‘gloss’
Just decide to love pink?
Your Place / Home Q & A : Life : The Buffalo News
Your Place / Home Q & A
By Al Heavens
THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER
October 04, 2009, 7:13 AM / 0 comments
Story tools:
Q:We have a 1948 house with pink tile in the bathroom that we have wanted to do something about for years, but we have been receiving conflicting advice.
Some say painting the tiles will not last long and will start flaking off quickly. Is there a product that has proven to permanently adhere to tile in a high-moisture environment?
We are told the pink tiles are set in a concrete base and will be a major job costing many thousands ($12,000 to $15,000) to remove and replace. The tiles are on the floor (small squares) and the walls throughout the room up to 50 inches from the floor including a full backdrop to the tub. The bathroom is on the second floor with wet-plaster ceilings below, which might not take the removal process well.
A: I’ve seen lots of efforts on the cheap-design shows such as TV’s “Trading Spaces” to change tile color with paint. Since the shows never return to the scene of their crimes, I have no idea how long the paint lasts.
I would assume moisture would be an issue, even if you used a paint designed for areas where the humidity can be high. In addition, if the tiles are glossy, they need to be deglossed or scuffed up to get the paint to adhere to the surface. Floor tiles would be more difficult to keep painted than the ones on the wall because you walk on them.
I’ve seen tile after it has been painted, and it looks painted. You might be able to tile over the pink, if the floor is level and can support the weight. I understand that has a greater success rate than painting tiles.
Tags: bathroom, color, gloss, house, paint, painting, pink, Removal, tileHow To Paint Or Stain Almost Anything
DIY: How To Paint Or Stain Almost Anything – Danny Lipford
How To Paint Or Stain Almost Anything
While a fresh coat of paint is one of the best ways to freshen up the walls in any room in your home, there are many other surfaces around the home that you may not have thought to paint, or if you did you may not have been entirely sure how to go about it. Some of these surfaces include concrete, brick, metal, aluminum and even plastic. So if you want to bedazzle your basement walls or make your worn-down aluminum siding a little more alluring – here are some tips on how to go about it.
Keep in mind: The best results for painting anything are achieved with proper preparation and the selection of the appropriate high quality paint product.
Concrete
First, let’s take a look at concrete which can be found in and around the home in driveways, walkways, basement walls and floors etc. There are two ways to treat concrete whether it is inside or outside your home – staining and painting. Choosing whether to stain or to paint your concrete would depend largely upon both the current state of the concrete (new or old and previously treated) as well as the look you want to achieve.
Staining
Similar to wood stain, concrete stain permeates the surface and provides a long-lasting, durable and decorative finish on interior and exterior concrete and masonry surfaces. The stain permeates the surface and actually bonds with concrete and masonry to form a tough shield that doesn’t fade, peel or flake like paint. To extend the life of the stain, consider using a clear stain as a final coat. Stain is inherently more transparent than paint and therefore does not completely cover up the concrete. Paint offers complete coverage and would be considered “opaque”. Concrete stains come in a variety of colors and can create a beautiful custom look to any walkway, patio or indoor floor.
Painting
Again, the choice here would depend upon the look you want as well as the current state of the concrete. Painting is a good choice if you want to create a more solid look, cover over any imperfections in the concrete or are simply re-painting an already painted concrete surface. An ideal choice of paint for basements is one that offers a waterproof feature as well as mildew resistance.
Whether you choose to stain or paint your concrete, make sure the surface is free from dirt and grease, and it is completely dry.
Metal
When it’s time to freshen up a metal handrail or fence, you must be vigilant to completely eliminate metal enemy #1 – RUST! There are a variety of products available that can help remove rust, but the most simple and effective way to do this is with an old-fashioned hand-held wire brush or a special wire brush attachment for your drill. Simply scrub the rust with the wire brush until it is completely gone and then wipe the metal down with mineral spirits. Once you have removed the rust, immediately apply a primer, ideally one that contains a rust inhibitor and then apply a topcoat of high gloss enamel paint.
Aluminum
Many people are surprised to learn that re-painting their existing aluminum siding is not only quite easy but certainly more cost-effective than replacing with new siding. As with all surfaces, the most important step is preparation – in the case of aluminum siding that means completely removing a chalky substance that builds up on siding over time. This chalky substance is usually fairly easily removed with a standard cleaner or degreaser and then wiped dry. However, in some cases a little more scrubbing is required. In most cases aluminum siding does not require a primer, however, if the original coating is completely worn down to the metal, prime those areas with a thinned-down oil based primer. Once you have cleaned and primed where necessary, choose a high quality 100% acrylic latex exterior paint with a satin finish. A satin finish best simulates the look of new aluminum siding.
Plastic
Painting plastic is now much more of an option due to a new product from Krylon called “Fusion” which adheres to plastic in a way no other consumer paint ever has. You can now extend the life of plastic chairs, lawn furniture, and children’s toys and send less plastic to the landfills. When painting plastic it is important to consider the current state of the plastic. If it is brand new, the surface needs to be wiped down with paint remover so that the paint will adhere properly. If it is older, simply wiping it clean will suffice. Apply a thin coat of one of sixteen brilliant colors available, allow to dry for a very short time and then apply again. Applying multiple thin coats of this product will prevent runs and drips.
Tags: brush, color, exterior, gloss, How to..., interior, paint, painting, Painting Metal, satin, simiFaux finishes add old-world charm
A sienna-toned glaze on the exterior walls and a waterfall finish
flanking the front door and on planters in the courtyard, add color,
warmth and focus to the home. (GARAY ARTISANS / August 14, 2009)
Related link
She fakes the look of marble, rust, metal, weather-worn plaster and
age-mottled glass. She makes painted designs look like wallpaper, and
fresh paneling appear decades old.
She is the founder of Garay Artisans, a company that specializes in
decorative painting and faux finishes on walls, floors and ceilings.
The business is based in Groveland, just west of Orlando in Lake County.
Earlier this year, the techniques Garay used to transform the
appearance of the Ocala home of Thomas and Amy Grabe won her the grand
prize in American Painting Contractor magazine’s national Top Job Awards.
For the project, Garay replaced the dull gray paint on the home’s
exterior with a rich, sienna-toned glaze. For contrast, she used
metallic paint and aging solutions to create a cascading patina effect
in shades of green and rust in the courtyard that leads to the home’s
front door.
Several rooms inside the house also received faux finishes. In the
living room and theater, raw paneling was given a distressed look with
alternating layers of black and barn-red paint. In a niche housing a
bronze statue, a combination of paint, glaze and gloss was used to
create the look of marble.
“Our favorite space is a small half-bath. The texture and color are amazing,” said Thomas Grabe.
In that powder room, a multicolored glaze and vertical plaster finish
are layered over a silver metallic-foil underlay. The baseboards and
crown molding have an aged-metallic finish and a niche has the look of
marble.
Garay is a talented painter “whose thorough knowledge of the history
behind her work allows her to truly bring old-world charm to every
job,” Thomas Grabe said.
Garay left her job in the New York music industry to start her
decorative-painting business in 1998. Shortly thereafter, she moved to
the Orlando area and was joined by her brother, Jason Rosales. Artisans
Monica Zeuli and Jeff Huckaby complete her team.
She and her team do both residential and commercial work. They recently
completed projects in the Grand Bohemian hotels in Savannah, Ga., and
Asheville, N.C.
The group takes classes every year to learn about new materials and
techniques. “But we also learn a lot on the job,” said Garay, 38. “It’s
quite an experience being on a scaffold, decorating 20-foot walls.”
For homes, popular finishes include glazes, which add a “warm, subtle
finish,” and Venetian plaster, which is mixed with marble dust.
“It has the look of marble but not the weight. When troweled on and burnished, it gets a beautiful sheen,” she said.
Other finishes include gold-leafing, freehand painting, stenciling,
cabinet refinishing, and verdigris or rust effects. Pricing starts at
$2 per square foot. For more details, visit garayartisans.com or call
407-839-4050.
Garay’s newest venture is adding an antique-looking patina to mirrors and glass.
“We spent countless hours perfecting this technique,” she said. “We lost quite a few mirrors in the process.”
Copyright © 2009, Orlando Sentinel
Tags: color, exterior, gloss, paint, paintingIs this a good price for painting exterior of house ?
this a good price for painting house exterior ? – Home Gardening Forum
San Francisco, California btw
Is this a good price of painting exterior of house ?
this is what it says on the contract proposal:
Preparations:
-Power wash exterior of building
-Scrape and sand to remove loose paint. Cleanup paint chips and dust
-All woodwork preparation shall include hand and machine sanding
-Apply epoxy resin / bondo to any dried out and spitting windowsills
Priming:
-Prime wood where necessary with an exterior oil-based primer
-Prime stucco where necessary with an acrylic masonry primer
-Etch and prime galvanized metal with oil-based galvanized primer, if needed
-Prime ferrous metal and rusty nails rust inhibitive enamel
Fillings:
-Use terypolmer patching to fill any cracks in any masonry
-Caulk and open seams or water cracks on siding, windows and doors
-Patch any nail holes around doors, windows, and other opening and spot prime
Finish:
-Finish siding with 2-3 coats of top quality low sheen latex acrylic paint
-Finish trim with 2-3 coats of top quality semi-gloss acrylic paint
-Finished stucco with 2 coats of top quality low sheen latex acrylic paint
-All windows will be cleaned
Total cost $9,600
Separate cost for scaffolding $1,500
Is it a good deal ?
this is for a 3 story house (garage = floor 1) btw
designspongeonline.com
Design*Sponge » Blog Archive » dear d*s: painting brick + color flow between rooms
Today is the first installment of dear d*s: a column where d*s editors and experts tackle design questions sent in by readers. this week i’m tackling two of my favorites and next week we’ll be hearing from an interior designer and an architect about space planning and much more. if you have a question you’d like answered just shoot us an email right here with the title “dear d*s”. if you’re asking a specific interior design question please include a picture of the space in question and your budget for any new projects.
question: dear d*s, could you please discuss painting a brick wall? under what conditions is this a good idea? when would it be an absolute no-no? what colors are up to the task? should it match other walls in the room? are there any tricks to the actual painting process? -alan and jennifer
answer: hi alan and jennifer! after we posted sabrina’s painted brick kitchen makeover we started receiving emails about the do’s and don’ts of painting brick. i consulted with some of my favorite local interior designers and their consensus on painting brick, and matching walls were pretty much the same- it’s a subjective decision. many of them sites real estate as a reason to paint- explaining that red and brown brick is often cited as an eyesore by those seeking to buy or rent homes. on thing they did agree on was that neutral colors are always a safe and classic option. what colors did they love most for brick? grey, white, cream and light coffee colors- all easy neutrals for a modern or traditional color scheme.
as for the how-to, i emailed one of my favorite local handymen to talk about the pitfalls and tricks of home brick painting. here are their steps, broken down:
1. start with a smooth, clean base: before painting, checking the condition of your brick is crucial. any cracks, holes or broken pieces of brick should be filled and treated before moving to the next step. when the brick is fully repaired, make sure it is cleaned thoroughly to remove any dust and debris.
2. keep it dry: brick is difficult to paint because of its porousness. so treating your brick with a water repellent is important. whether you use a water sealant (surface level) or water repellent (which penetrates up to 1/4″) this step will greatly improve the paint’s ability to stick to your brick wall.
3. priming: because of the porous nature of brick, you’ll always need to prime. you’ll want to use a water-based exterior primer. apply several thin coats of primer, allowing at least an hour (for quick-drying primers) in between coats.
4. paint: a lot of people have recommendations for mixing glue into paint, adding hot water and all sorts of other tricks, but the painter and interior designers i consulted all agreed- regular flat paint is always a safe bet for painting interior brick. the process is a long one because of how quickly brick absorbs paint, but if you work in sections and take your time, you’ll end up with a more professional finish.
*tip to consider: paint with a glossy finish will accentuate any irregularities and unevenness in brick, so if you want your wall to disappear into the room, you will want to stick with a flat paint. if you want to show off the brick texture, look for a glossy finish- it will also be easier to clean (which you can do with mild soap and water) and will highlight the finish of the brick.
CLICK HERE for the next question & answer (color flow between rooms) after the jump!
question: dear d*s, i have a small house and i love color on the walls, but i do not want all my rooms the same color. how do you tie different rooms together when the color on the wall changes? -jane
answer: hi jane! this one is a toughy. if you talk to one designer they’ll tell you to go one way, and another designer will tell you another. the interior designers i talked to split straight down the middle so i figured i’d share their advice, along my thoughts on the topic.
1. keep it tonal: many of the designers i spoke with suggested keeping things in the same tone, working from dark to light as you move toward the interior of your home (because interiors usually receive less light). if you want to keep things simple, consider a color you love, or that you and the other people living in your home enjoy, and work with different shades of the color throughout your home. which are the best colors to try for this? if you’re looking to keep things neutral, shades of green, blue and tan work well in a wide range of home styles.
2. carry colors through: the other portion of designers i spoke with felt that if you didn’t want to stick to one color, to consider carrying the color from one room into the next room in an unexpected way- on a ceiling, on the bottom half of a chair rail, on the floor- or even on moldings. you’ll want to make sure this accent color works with the second room’s main color, but accent colors from one room will help you visually travel from one space to another.
3. visual cues: expanding on what the second group of designers said, personally, i focus on trying to make sure there is something in each room that visually ties into the next. that doesn’t need to be a large area of paint though. for example, my living room is grey and my kitchen is electric red/orange. those rooms aren’t terribly at odds, but they’re definitely a big jump in color. so we chose to use wallpaper with orange detailing on a small accent wall that you see when looking from the living room. when you look into the kitchen your eyes notice the tiny bits of orange in the wallpaper and connect visually to the orange walls in the kitchen. the overall effect is a bit of a flow, but in a less obvious way. the same thing can be achieved with colorful lighting, accent pillows, rugs and event artwork on the wall.
*tips on what to avoid: one things that designers mentioned again and again was to avoid playing with colors that clashed in terms of warmth. two different cool colors often work better together than a warm and cool color. if you choose to not focus on “flowing” between rooms (sometimes rules are made to be broken!) keep in mind that loud colors, or colors that clash in terms of warmth may be somewhat distracting to visitors and residents of your home.
Tags: color, exterior, flat, gloss, interior, paint, paintingEstimating How Much Paint to Buy
Estimating How Much Paint to Buy – For Dummies
Estimating How Much Paint to Buy
Before you begin painting your home’s interior walls, ceiling, woodwork, doors, or windows, you need to estimate the amount of paint you’ll use. Estimates require specific calculations for each surface you want to paint.
To estimate the amount of paint you need in order to
cover the walls of a room, add together the length of all the walls and
then multiply the number by the height of the room, from floor to
ceiling. The number you get is the room’s square footage. Is that math
class coming back to you now?
Now you have to determine how much of that square
footage is paintable surface area. Because you use a different paint on
the doors and windows, subtract those areas from the room total. No
sweat, just subtract 20 square feet for each door and 15 square feet
for each average-sized window in the room. You end up with a number
that is close to the actual wall area you have to cover with paint.
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In |
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When painting a dark color, pros often add a color tint to the white primer. Tints for both latex or alkyd paints are available at most paint stores. For best results, choose a tint shade that’s closest to the top coat color. |
Now for the clincher of the math problem. Divide the
paintable wall area by 350 (the square-foot coverage in each gallon
can) to find the number of gallons of paint you need for the walls. You
can round uneven numbers; if the remainder is less than .5, order a
couple of quarts of wall paint to go with the gallons; if the remainder
is more than .5, order an extra gallon. Of course, buying in bulk is
usually more economical, so you may discover that 3 quarts of paint
cost as much as a gallon.
Examples
The following examples walk you through the
calculations for determining how much paint you need for a 14-x-20-foot
room that’s 8 feet tall and has two doors and two windows.
Ceiling paint estimator
Use the following formula to estimate the amount of ceiling paint you need. Double the result if the ceiling requires two coats.
1. Multiply the length of the ceiling times its width to find its area.
14 × 20 = 280 square feet
2. Divide that number by 350 (the estimated square feet covered per gallon) to figure out how many gallons of paint you need.
280 ÷ 350 = .8
For this example, you want to buy 1 gallon of ceiling paint for a single coat.
Wall paint estimator
Use the following formula to estimate the amount of wall paint you need. Double the result if the walls require two coats.
1. Add together the length of each wall.
14 + 20 + 14 + 20 = 68 feet
2. Multiply the sum by the wall height, to find the total wall area.
68 × 8 = 544 square feet
3. Subtract 20 square feet for each door (20 × 2 =
40) and 15 square feet for each window (15 × 2 = 30) to find the actual
amount of wall area you’re painting.
544 – 70 = 474 square feet
4. Divide this figure by the paint coverage (350 square feet per gallon), and the result is the number of gallons to purchase.
474 ÷ 350 = 1.4
For this example, you want to buy 1 gallon and 2 quarts of paint for a single coat.
Woodwork paint estimator
Measure the length of the trim
in feet, and multiply that number by 1/2 foot (.5), as a rough size for
the width of the trim. Include all the trim around doors and windows,
at baseboards, along the ceiling, and for any built-in furniture.
As an example, imagine that you have ceiling molding running around a room that is 14 feet wide and 20 feet long.
1. Determine the total length of molding around the room by adding together the length of all the walls that the molding covers.
Round the numbers off to the nearest foot.
14 + 20 + 14 + 20 = 68 feet
2. Multiply the sum by .5 for an estimated width of the molding.
68 × .5 = 34 square feet
3. Divide this number by 350 to estimate the gallons of paint required to cover the molding.
34 ÷ 350 = .09
The result in this example is much less than a quart,
but you may paint other woodwork in the room the same color, so buying
a full quart may not be terribly wasteful.
Door and window estimator
Use the same figure for estimating door coverage as
you use in your wall-area calculations — 20 square feet = one door.
Multiply the number of doors by 20, doubling the answer if you plan to
paint both sides. Wall paint estimates allow for 15 square feet for
each window. Use about half that window area to figure trim and inside
sash — the glass isn’t important to the calculation.
For the room in this example:
1. Multiply the number of doors by 20.
2 × 20 = 40 square feet
2. Multiply the number of windows by 7.5.
2 Windows × 7.5 = 15 square feet
3. Add these numbers together.
40 + 15 = 55
4. Divide the result by 350 (the estimated square feet covered per gallon).
54 ÷ 350 = .16
Often, you end up needing to buy only a quart of paint, which goes a long way on doors and window trim.
Tags: color, gloss, How Much Paint, interior, paint, paintingSherwin Williams has contractors now?
Redesign Your Exterior Decor For A Beautiful Home | Ezine Article Directory
Redesign Your Exterior Decor For A Beautiful Home
26.09.2009 | Author: Gerald Bredlau | Posted in Home & Family
by Gerald Bredlau
Has your home become an eye sore in the neighborhood. If so, you may be in the market to remodel the exterior of your home. It is best to take a low cost approach when you have decided to upgrade the exterior decor of your home. Be sure to keep your cost at a minimum by getting at least three estimates from each contractor.
Painting is one of the least expensive makeovers you can do to the exterior portion of your home. Sherwin Williams has many different colors of paint for you to choose from. You have the option of using a satin or a semi gloss finish. Sherwin Williams has contractors who are willing to give you an estimate on the cost of painting the outside of your home.
New gutters are a great way to bring out the roof line on your home. It is important to coordinate the color of your gutters with the exterior portion of your home. If money permits, copper gutters add a prestigious look to any home.
Tags: Business, color, exterior, gloss, paint, painting, satinPaint a Panel Door
Paint a Panel Door | DoItYourself.com
Paint a Panel Door
comments
Paint a Panel Door
by Brian Simkins
Doors are one of the most difficult painted surfaces in your home to keep clean. Dirty handprints from the kids and scuffs at the bottom of the door from shoes are just a few of the things that you will be battling in an effort to keep it clean. If the door is paneled, you have the additional challenge of trying to keep dust and grime from settling into the grooves on the door. Occasionally, you may find that cleaning just isn’t enough and that you need to paint the door in order to keep it looking fresh.
Painting a paneled door can be a bit tricky. It’s not like a flat door where you can just get a roller and paint the entire surface of the door in a few minutes. It is impossible to get the roller into all of the panel corners and angled surfaces. With a few simple steps and a little bit of patience though, you can have your paneled door looking like new with a fresh coat of paint.
Preparing the Door
The first step in any painting project is to prepare the surface to accept the paint. If you don’t do this, then you may end up with peeling or flaking paint in the near future. Use a standard household cleaner to make sure that all of the surface dirt and grease is removed from every surface that you are going to paint. Once you are confident that the door is clean, use a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to lightly scuff all of the flat surfaces. This will help the new paint to stick better.
If you have any paint that is peeling, then you need to use a putty knife to scrape it away before you sand. You can use the sand paper to smooth any rough edges that may be left after scraping. Although this step generally isn’t needed on interior doors, you may find that some scraping is necessary on paneled doors that have a surface exposed to the weather.
Painting
When painting a paneled door, you will definitely need a high quality brush. Some folks also like to use a small roller for the flat surfaces, but you can do the entire door with a brush and still get a quality finish. When selecting the paint, make sure that you get a semi-gloss sheen. Not only is this paint much easier to keep clean than an eggshell or a flat, it is quite a bit more durable.
Begin with the panels. Using your brush, paint the corners and the grooves of the panels in much the same way that you would if you were cutting in the corners of a wall that you were about to paint. Make sure that you don’t get to much paint, as it will gather in the milled grooves and distort the appearance of the door. It is much better to use a light coat and then apply a second if necessary than it is to put on too much paint at the beginning.
After you have cut in the corners of all the panels you can brush over the flat surface of the panels. This is an area where some people like to use their small roller. Just use the roller to apply the paint, and then use the brush to make sure that it is spread evenly. This is the best way to avoid the stippled roller texture that will be left on the smooth surface of the door.
The last portion of the door that you should paint is the stiles and rails. These are the flat surfaces that actually hold the panels into place. With these, as with the flat face of the panels, you can use a roller to apply the pain and then finish the texture with your brush, or you can paint them entirely by hand with the brush. Work slowly around the corners and edges of the panels to make sure that you don’t cause any drips that will flow down into the panels and cause runs.
Painting a paneled door does not require a lot of skill, it just takes a little bit of patience and proper preparation.
Brian Simkins is a freelance writer living in Chicago. He enjoys using his 14 years of home improvement experience to educate and equip new home owners.
Paint a Panel Door
Paint a Panel Door | DoItYourself.com
Paint a Panel Door
comments
Paint a Panel Door
by Brian Simkins
Doors are one of the most difficult painted surfaces in your home to keep clean. Dirty handprints from the kids and scuffs at the bottom of the door from shoes are just a few of the things that you will be battling in an effort to keep it clean. If the door is paneled, you have the additional challenge of trying to keep dust and grime from settling into the grooves on the door. Occasionally, you may find that cleaning just isn’t enough and that you need to paint the door in order to keep it looking fresh.
Painting a paneled door can be a bit tricky. It’s not like a flat door where you can just get a roller and paint the entire surface of the door in a few minutes. It is impossible to get the roller into all of the panel corners and angled surfaces. With a few simple steps and a little bit of patience though, you can have your paneled door looking like new with a fresh coat of paint.
Preparing the Door
The first step in any painting project is to prepare the surface to accept the paint. If you don’t do this, then you may end up with peeling or flaking paint in the near future. Use a standard household cleaner to make sure that all of the surface dirt and grease is removed from every surface that you are going to paint. Once you are confident that the door is clean, use a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to lightly scuff all of the flat surfaces. This will help the new paint to stick better.
If you have any paint that is peeling, then you need to use a putty knife to scrape it away before you sand. You can use the sand paper to smooth any rough edges that may be left after scraping. Although this step generally isn’t needed on interior doors, you may find that some scraping is necessary on paneled doors that have a surface exposed to the weather.
Painting
When painting a paneled door, you will definitely need a high quality brush. Some folks also like to use a small roller for the flat surfaces, but you can do the entire door with a brush and still get a quality finish. When selecting the paint, make sure that you get a semi-gloss sheen. Not only is this paint much easier to keep clean than an eggshell or a flat, it is quite a bit more durable.
Begin with the panels. Using your brush, paint the corners and the grooves of the panels in much the same way that you would if you were cutting in the corners of a wall that you were about to paint. Make sure that you don’t get to much paint, as it will gather in the milled grooves and distort the appearance of the door. It is much better to use a light coat and then apply a second if necessary than it is to put on too much paint at the beginning.
After you have cut in the corners of all the panels you can brush over the flat surface of the panels. This is an area where some people like to use their small roller. Just use the roller to apply the paint, and then use the brush to make sure that it is spread evenly. This is the best way to avoid the stippled roller texture that will be left on the smooth surface of the door.
The last portion of the door that you should paint is the stiles and rails. These are the flat surfaces that actually hold the panels into place. With these, as with the flat face of the panels, you can use a roller to apply the pain and then finish the texture with your brush, or you can paint them entirely by hand with the brush. Work slowly around the corners and edges of the panels to make sure that you don’t cause any drips that will flow down into the panels and cause runs.
Painting a paneled door does not require a lot of skill, it just takes a little bit of patience and proper preparation.
Brian Simkins is a freelance writer living in Chicago. He enjoys using his 14 years of home improvement experience to educate and equip new home owners.
Paint Color to Sell Your Home
Paint Color to Sell Your Home – It isn’t White!! Portland Home Stager Shares Paint Color Tips
For decades, the conventional wisdom when getting ready to sell your house was to paint all the walls back to white. But that is SO yesterday! White …. the color of snow & ice … does absolutely nothing to warm up a house. It doesn’t highlight architectural features and it doesn’t enhance the colors of your wood, granite or other finishes. To sell your property today, you need to use soft warm decorator colors that are current. That way they not only look beautiful in the home, but will go with the existing furnishings of your prospective buyers and remind them of the beautiful new furnishings and colors they have been eyeing at the stores in anticipation of their new home.
Tags: color, exterior, flat, gloss, interior, Interior Painting, paint, painting, satin, Uncategorized









































