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DIY: How To Paint Or Stain Almost Anything – Danny Lipford
How To Paint Or Stain Almost Anything

While a fresh coat of paint is one of the best ways to freshen up the walls in any room in your home, there are many other surfaces around the home that you may not have thought to paint, or if you did you may not have been entirely sure how to go about it. Some of these surfaces include concrete, brick, metal, aluminum and even plastic. So if you want to bedazzle your basement walls or make your worn-down aluminum siding a little more alluring – here are some tips on how to go about it.

Keep in mind: The best results for painting anything are achieved with proper preparation and the selection of the appropriate high quality paint product.
Concrete

First, let’s take a look at concrete which can be found in and around the home in driveways, walkways, basement walls and floors etc. There are two ways to treat concrete whether it is inside or outside your home – staining and painting. Choosing whether to stain or to paint your concrete would depend largely upon both the current state of the concrete (new or old and previously treated) as well as the look you want to achieve.
Staining

Similar to wood stain, concrete stain permeates the surface and provides a long-lasting, durable and decorative finish on interior and exterior concrete and masonry surfaces. The stain permeates the surface and actually bonds with concrete and masonry to form a tough shield that doesn’t fade, peel or flake like paint. To extend the life of the stain, consider using a clear stain as a final coat. Stain is inherently more transparent than paint and therefore does not completely cover up the concrete. Paint offers complete coverage and would be considered “opaque”. Concrete stains come in a variety of colors and can create a beautiful custom look to any walkway, patio or indoor floor.
Painting

Again, the choice here would depend upon the look you want as well as the current state of the concrete. Painting is a good choice if you want to create a more solid look, cover over any imperfections in the concrete or are simply re-painting an already painted concrete surface. An ideal choice of paint for basements is one that offers a waterproof feature as well as mildew resistance.

Whether you choose to stain or paint your concrete, make sure the surface is free from dirt and grease, and it is completely dry.
Metal

When it’s time to freshen up a metal handrail or fence, you must be vigilant to completely eliminate metal enemy #1 – RUST! There are a variety of products available that can help remove rust, but the most simple and effective way to do this is with an old-fashioned hand-held wire brush or a special wire brush attachment for your drill. Simply scrub the rust with the wire brush until it is completely gone and then wipe the metal down with mineral spirits. Once you have removed the rust, immediately apply a primer, ideally one that contains a rust inhibitor and then apply a topcoat of high gloss enamel paint.
Aluminum

Many people are surprised to learn that re-painting their existing aluminum siding is not only quite easy but certainly more cost-effective than replacing with new siding. As with all surfaces, the most important step is preparation – in the case of aluminum siding that means completely removing a chalky substance that builds up on siding over time. This chalky substance is usually fairly easily removed with a standard cleaner or degreaser and then wiped dry. However, in some cases a little more scrubbing is required. In most cases aluminum siding does not require a primer, however, if the original coating is completely worn down to the metal, prime those areas with a thinned-down oil based primer. Once you have cleaned and primed where necessary, choose a high quality 100% acrylic latex exterior paint with a satin finish. A satin finish best simulates the look of new aluminum siding.
Plastic

Painting plastic is now much more of an option due to a new product from Krylon called “Fusion” which adheres to plastic in a way no other consumer paint ever has. You can now extend the life of plastic chairs, lawn furniture, and children’s toys and send less plastic to the landfills. When painting plastic it is important to consider the current state of the plastic. If it is brand new, the surface needs to be wiped down with paint remover so that the paint will adhere properly. If it is older, simply wiping it clean will suffice. Apply a thin coat of one of sixteen brilliant colors available, allow to dry for a very short time and then apply again. Applying multiple thin coats of this product will prevent runs and drips.

“Purple” Discovery in Brett Favre’s Green Bay Home – WBAY-TV Green Bay-Fox Cities-Northeast Wisconsin News:

Updated:
Oct 02, 2009 4:02 PM PDT

By Jeff Alexander

The man who bought Brett Favre’s home in Green Bay has made a colorful discovery. He feels it might prove the Packers legend had the Vikings on his mind for some time.

While a gallon of paint in someone’s basement is far from unusual, when it’s left behind by Brett Favre and the color is labeled “Potentially Purple,” it raises some eyebrows.

“He was already thinking about it when he was painting the house is what I thought,” Dave Pearson laughed.

Dave Pearson and his wife bought the Favres’ house on Shady Lane last November. One of the rooms in the home is the color purple (Potentially Purple is a shade similar to lilac) but they didn’t come across the leftover paint until recently.

“If I would’ve found this can of paint and had been a betting man several months ago, I would have definitely bet on him going to the Vikings.”

As for the game Monday, Pearson admits he is a Favre fan but his color of choice is green and gold.

“I want him to look good but I can’t bring myself to rooting for the Vikings,” Pearson said. “I’d like to see him throw for 450 yards and lose the game.”

He’s not averse to writing to the Vikings, though. After finding the paint, Pearson sent a letter to the Minnesota Vikings asking if Favre would sign the paint can.

“You have to look at the humor in everything,” Pearson said.

He hasn’t received a response yet, but either way the paint is staying put.

He says if Favre does sign it, he’ll put the paint can on his mantle.

Celebrity homes for sale is one of the most popular real estate categories searched online. And Realtor.com is the #1 site to find available celeb homes on the market. We make it easy for you to live like a major league star – or next door to one! Check out these latest hot celebrity listings.

Brett Favre’s Green Bay, WI home – $475,000
Quarterback Brett Favre’s recent switch from the Green Bay Packers to the New York Jets may have let down Cheeseheads but has put a smile on the face of football fans in the Empire State. It’s a big culture change for the Favres, who originally purchased this rather modest home in August 2005 for $416,000. The quaint Ashwaubenon ranch residence is set on a beautiful private, landscaped lot. The house is approximately 2928 sq. ft. and has 4 bedrooms, 3 baths, a 3 car garage, and patio. Plus it will have an awesome aura for next year’s Super Bowl viewing party.

CBS The Early Show, Exterior, Home Improvement, Painting & Finishing by Danny Lipford

Of all the remodeling projects, by far, the one tackled more often
by homeowners is painting. We’re entering the time of the year when it
makes sense to take on any outside painting, because the weather is
going to be cooler and more comfortable. But not all outdoor painting
projects are equal. You may have several types of surfaces to paint
outside your home and each has its own unique method to ensure success.
Here are a few tips that, hopefully, will keep your colors and your
painting experience bright.

Painting Wood

Whether it’s lap siding, board and battens or porch railings, if you
want a successful paint job, it all starts with preparation. As is
often the case with wood surfaces that have to deal with Mother Nature,
the old paint begins to flake, exposing raw wood.. Before you pick up
your paint brush, you need to remove as much of the old, flaking paint
as possible. This can be done with a simple paint scraper. If, however,
you have a large area in need of scraping, you’re best bet is to use a
drill motor or cordless drill with an attachment specifically designed
for stripping paint. A synthetic fiber wheel does a great job and lasts
much longer than the old sandpaper wheels that are often used. For very
stubborn spots, you could also apply a chemical paint stripper. This,
however, will mean that the job is going to take you longer to complete
because the surface needs to be completely dry before moving on to the
next step. Once the loose paint is removed, prime the raw wood with a
good quality primer before applying a finished coat of paint.

Painting Wrought Iron

The process for iron work, such as railings, columns or decorative
hangings is very similar to wood, which means the most important step
is preparation. Using your drill motor or cordless drill with a wire
wheel attachment is perfect for removing any rust or deteriorating
paint. There are also chemical strippers available for iron, but in
most cases, the wire wheel is sufficient. To prime the metal surface,
you need to choose a primer made for metals. You can purchase it in
liquid form and apply it with a brush like normal paint, but if the
metal has intricate details, you’d be better off using an aerosol spray
primer. The metal primer will typically have a rust inhibitor
formulated in it and will be either a gray or burnt umber color when
applied. Once the primer dries, it provides a surface that new paint
will bind to so it will last for years without flaking.

Painting Masonry and Concrete

Brick, cinder block and stucco surfaces all have one thing in
common: They are porous. Preparation for masonry surfaces starts with
sealing them. A masonry primer will do the job, but be forewarned,
these sealers are usually quite thick, more so than paint, and it takes
a lot longer to cover the area you’re painting, but it needs to be
done. Actually, there are some newer methods out there to spray the
sealers on masonry surfaces as well as new paint, but it’s mainly done
by professionals and not for do-it-yourselfers.

Concrete is very similar, but in addition to being able to paint it,
you can also put stain on it. Staining can actually be a little less
strenuous than painting since coverage is greater and it’s easier to
apply. There are a lot of colors to choose from, too, so you can match
or compliment other colors on your house.

Painting Metal

Although I already mentioned wrought iron, there are other metal
surfaces around your house that could stand a coat of paint at times.
Eave metal, valley metal and even roof vents can all be painted. The
challenge is how to prepare them. Most of these metals are galvanized
and paint, typically, won’t stick to them. The secret is a common item
you probably have in your kitchen pantry. Take a rag and dip it in
simple white vinegar. Swab the metal surface with the soaked rag and
allow it to dry. There is a chemical reaction with the vinegar that
creates a surface that any spray paint will adhere to. Roof vents are
probably the best thing to spray paint, because you can paint it a
color to match your shingles and help make it blend into the color of
the roof. It really looks a lot better than a dull, rusty metal vent.

Painting Plastic

Finally, for items such as lawn furniture or even something as
simple as a flower pot made from plastic, there are some really great
ways to make them look spectacular. Certainly, a spray paint formulated
to bond with plastic is what you want to use, but you don’t have to
settle for simple color any more. First, wash the plastic with a water
and mild detergent solution to remove any dirt and grime. Once it is
completely dry, you can spray paint it with some of the new plastic
paints that also will spray on a texture, such as hammered metal.
You’ve got several color choices and it makes a really unique
appearance.

One final word of advice. Be sure to read the directions to any of
these specialty paints paying close attention to recommended weather
conditions, proper ventilation and application options.

Related Article: How to paint or stain almost anything

Let It Shine: Painted Ceiling Medallion
I loved the ceiling medallion in the dining room that came with the house. It just never really stood out against the white popcorn ceilings

The chandelier is a bit plain for my taste too, but not the focus today.

I didn’t even bother to tape the area off. I just used a good angled brush with Kilz exterior black paint. (It claims one coat coverage, however you can see that’s not the case)

I applied a second coat of black and dry brushed acrylic craft paint in burnt umber, with the same angled brush.

I used a sponge brush to highlight the raised areas with gold (acrylic craft paint).

I used some scrap fabric from my bedding to make a chandelier cover. Similar to what I did here, but instead I ironed the seams before hand, and glued it together while on a ladder.

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Painting a Steel Door
Painting a Steel Door

Often there is some confusion about painting a steel door. Many homeowners have heard about the problems associated with painting pre-primed steel doors. Some of these problems are excessive peeling of the paint on the door or frame and difficulty to hide brush strokes on a smooth surface.

Most problems with painting a metal door are preventable and stem from lack of knowledge about the factory primer and the proper steps involved when painting a steel door. Another factor that will affect the life of the paint is the color and the use of a storm door, follow the manufactures recommendations.

Insulated steel entry doors are a great life long purchase and if painted correctly can be virtually maintenance free for many years.

General Procedures for Painting a Steel Door

Most of the work involved when painting steel doors is with the preparation. This is true even for a new, unpainted, steel door. The beauty and longevity of your steel door is dependant on the following procedures. These apply to the frame and trim as well.

1) Remove Hardware and Weather Stripping

No matter which painting method you use, remove all the locking hardware from the door and frame, including strike plates. Brushing around these items is difficult and time consuming. Other items to be removed can be kick plates and doorknockers. Remove the hinges if you are painting a steel door detached from the frame.
Now remove the weather stripping. Many door manufactures have removable weather stripping. It simply pulls out of a grove in the frame. Remember how it came out for reinstallation and store in a safe place.

If the weather stripping cannot be removed, stapled or secured in place, you can use a drywall knife to act as a shield while brushing the frame and trim. Otherwise apply masking tape for protection while painting.

2) Remove Excess Window Glazing

Doors with windows or sidelights need to have the excess glazing removed prior to painting. This caulking material will have emerged from under the window frame; can be a sticky compound or silicone caulk.

Use a new single edge razor blade and score the glazing next to the frame. Be careful not to cut the frame. Now remove the excess glazing by holding the blade perpendicular and close to the frame. Carefully scrape the glazing loose.

After the glazing is removed wipe the area clean with a solvent to remove any remaining film. Use denatured alcohol for silicone and mineral spirits if the glazing is sticky.

3) Clean and Mask

A clean surface is important while painting a steel door. Pay special attention to greasy fingerprints and general grime. Any mild cleaner can be used, rinse well after cleaning. Another cleaning method is to wipe the steel door and sidelights with a clean rag saturated with denatured alcohol. This will remove most types of surface contamination.

After the door is cleaned and dry, mask the glass and any other items not to be painted. The amount of masking depends on the painting method you use.

Masking a window before spraying a steel door.
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Steel door masked and ready for spraying.
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4) Fix Dents, Sand and Prime

Fixing any dents, sanding the entire steel door and priming are all vital steps. The amount of work at this stage depends on the doors condition and if the door is new or previously painted. Painting a steel door is similar to painting a car. Although the doors finish doesn’t need to be as good as a car, every dent and deep scratch will be highlighted after painting.

Repairing a Steel Door and Frame

Use auto body filler, such as Bondo, for dents and deep scratches. Before applying any filler, sand the damaged area with 80-100 grit sandpaper to help with adhesion. Mix the auto body filler according to the manufactures directions and try to slightly overfill the damaged area.

Allow the filler to dry completely then begin sanding to level and smooth it with the surrounding area. A vibrating orbital sander or a palm sander can be used for large areas. Small repairs can be hand sanded using a rigid sanding block and sandpaper.

Start with 100 grit sandpaper to remove most of the excess filler. Be careful not to sand too much. Continue sanding with 150 grit sandpaper, then finish with 220 grit or finer. Feel the repaired area with your fingers to check for ruff edges or deep scratches.

Spray on a small amount of primer to highlight any defects in the repair, an aerosol primer works great. Continue filling and sanding until the repair is flush with the surface and not visible after priming.

The same auto body filler can be used to repair the wood frame.

Repairing wood is basically the same as with the steel door. Remove all loose material, including peeling paint or rotten wood. Sand the area around the repair with 80 grit sandpaper to roughen the surface. Build the repair in layers if over ½ inch deep. Finish sand in the same manner as the steel door.

Finish Sanding

Sanding is a very important step while painting a steel door. After all repairs are finished, the entire door will need to be lightly sanded. This needs to be done on new and previously painted steel doors. Use 120-150 grit sandpaper or a medium-fine sanding sponge.

New steel doors need to be sanded to roughen the surface without causing deep scratches. Previously painted doors can be sanded to remove or lessen brush marks or paint drips. After sanding wipe the entire door with a tack cloth.

Now is a good time to sand the frame. New primed frames need be hand sanded with a medium-fine sanding sponge. Previously painted frames can be hand sanded if in good shape or power sanded with a palm sander to remove loose paint and heavy paint edges.

Priming a Steel Door and Wood Frame

It has been my experience that new doors need to be primed with a universal quick drying oil base primer before painting, such as Zinnser Cover Stain. This is especially true for the wood frame.

Previously painted doors and frames need to be primed only if the type of finish paint is a different type or if the previous finish is in bad shape. Acrylic paints shouldn’t be applied over oil base paint without priming first. Prime all raw wood on the frame as well as any exposed metal.

Use a universal quick drying oil base primer for all your priming needs. An aerosol primer can be used on the door, otherwise use the same procedure as when painting. Choose a good primer as the foundation for the finish paint.

Now is the best time to take a good look at all the work you have done so far. It will be imposable to fix anything once you have started painting. Painting a steel door can be time consuming, but with the preparation as perfect as possible the end result will be much better than the alternative.

5) Painting a Steel Door and Side Lights

Applying the paint is the most satisfying part of painting a steel door, plan on a minimum of one coat of primer and two coats of finish. You have three methods of application to choose from, brushing, rolling or spraying.

* Brushing Steel Doors – Probably the most popular way to paint a steel door requiring the least investment of tools. Achieving a truly smooth finish is difficult with this method, easier if you use a good professional paint brush.
* Rolling a Steel Door – An easy method to master requiring a minimal investment of tools. Excellent control is possible with the right size of roller frame and short nap roller cover. The finish will have a fine even texture from the roller cover, better than brushing in most cases.
* Spraying a Steel Door – If you want a truly smooth finish, using a paint sprayer is the only way to go. This method requires the largest investment of tools and time. Plus, a little experience using this equipment is a must.

The best finish is from spraying; either with an airless paint sprayer or HVLP sprayer but a steel door can be rolled or brushed. Rolling is a great alternative to spraying, producing a very satisfying finish.

On the other hand, brushing can be problematic producing brush marks on the smooth surface. Painting steel doors with a brush is best suited for doors with raised panels; flat doors should be sprayed or rolled. Choose an application method that best suits your abilities and needs.

Steel Door Components
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Steel Door Painting Sequence-Paint By The Number
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Brushing Direction For Painting a Steel Door
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Painting the Door Frame and Sidelights

The frame can be painted while waiting for the door to dry between coats of paint. Typically two different colors and types of paint are used, one for the exterior part and one for the interior. Concentrate on one color at a time.

Begin with the interior color, if the door has been removed from the frame for painting. The interior portion is the most difficult with the door installed. Otherwise, begin with the exterior color so the door will appear finished sooner.

Start painting the upper part first, the header, and then work down one side at a time. If the weather stripping was left installed use a 6-inch drywall knife to act as a shield to protect the weather stripping. Simply insert the knife between the weather stripping and the frame. Moving it down as you brush. Wipe the knife clean several times while brushing to avoid any paint build-up.

The door hinges and striker plate(s) can be protected by carefully covering with masking tape or removed if the door was uninstalled for painting.

Sidelights are typically painted with a brush but can be sprayed with the appropriate masking. The method you choose depends on the final outcome you want and your skill with a paint sprayer.

Steel Door Painting Tips

Although painting a steel door is an easy project for most homeowners, there are a few considerations that can drastically affect the longevity of the finish and the need to refinish sooner. Painting a steel door shouldn’t need to be done for 8-10 years if completed properly.

* The color you choose will affect how long the paint lasts. Dark colors will fade sooner. The worst color is red. Although the front door is a great place for a dramatic statement, a dark or red color will need repainting much sooner.
* Sun exposure will also cause the finish to fade faster. Steel doors can become quite hot when exposed to direct sunlight. Lighter colors with a hint of brown will last longer when exposed to direct sunlight.
* Storm doors can act as a greenhouse. Trapping heat and causing premature paint failure. Try to leave the top storm door window cracked open to ventilate this heat.
* 100% Acrylic paints will out perform traditional oil base paints when used on a steel door. Top quality exterior acrylic house paint is more resistant to the effects of sunlight.
* Seal the kick plate with a small bead of caulk before installation. This will act as a gasket and keep moisture from collecting behind the kick plate. The moisture will cause the paint to fail and rusting of the steel.

Tips for Painting Exterior Door Surfaces – Home Remodeling Ideas at ReliableRemodeler.com
Tips for Painting Exterior Door Surfaces
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Painting exterior door surfaces is an easy project for most homeowners. It can usually be completed in one weekend and sometimes even in a single day. The amount of time it will take depends on the type of door, the amount of surface preparation required, and other issues or problems that sometimes pop up during a home repair project. We’ll focus on the two most common types of exterior doors – steel and wood. The processes are similar, but not exactly the same.

When painting exterior door surfaces of a steel door, pay close attention to the kind of paint that is already on the door. If the existing paint is oil based then you can apply either oil based or latex paint for the new coat. However, if the existing paint is latex paint, you must use latex paint for the new coat because oil based paint. If you try to use oil based paint it will not work. Most painting experts recommend that you use the highest quality 100% acrylic latex paint possible because it is the most durable and can be applied over any type of existing paint.

Painting Exterior Door

Surface preparation is the next step, because if the surface is not clean and free of debris or loose paint then the new coat will not adhere properly. You also need to rough up the surface of the old door with sandpaper to get the best bond between the new paint and the old surface.

With wood doors, you have two basic choices to make – do you want to paint it or stain it? If you choose stain, then the surface should be cleaned, sanded, and smooth before applying stain. If you choose paint then the surface must also be prepared according to the aforementioned way. It is also essential that any old paint be scraped off. Depending on the color you are applying and the old color already on the door, you may need to put a coat of primer on first. This is nearly always an extra step that is well worth the time it takes, because the top color will look better and the paint will be more durable over time. Regardless of the type of door you have – wood or steel – the easiest method of painting exterior door surfaces is to lay the door flat on two saw horses.

Painting Doors

The door is a main focal point of any space and painting doors can have a dramatic effect on the overall look of a room’s decor. Many doors see a lot of use and often abuse. Properly painting doors can take care of the scratches and dings from everyday life.

Painting interior doors can be accomplished with the door removed or still hanging. This depends on your skill level when cutting in with a paint brush, unpainted or previously painted and the overall condition of the door. Plus, will the door be sprayed or painted with a brush or roller?

All of these points and the doors style will influence all decisions made concerning painting doors.

Two general door styles exist, flat and paneled. Plus different types of materials can be used for their construction. Typically we encounter solid wood, solid Masonite and hollow core doors.

* New, unpainted, solid wood doors can be paneled or slab, smooth. All unpainted doors must receive a coat of primer prior to painting. Oil base enamel under coater works best, it sands smooth and accepts any type of finish paint.
* Solid Masonite doors are available in many styles but typically have the look of a smooth paneled door. Although usually pre-primed at the factory an additional coat of enamel under coater is recommended.
* Hollow core doors are very common and are either slab or paneled. Two different materials are used in their construction, wood veneer and Masonite. Wood veneer doors are typically a smooth slab, while Masonite is paneled, often has an embossed wood grain effect.

Basic Preparation Procedures

Before you begin to paint a door, remove the doorknob and striker plate, plus any other non-paintable accessories. Clear away any obstructions and limit its use during the door painting process. New, unpainted, wood doors require sanding before priming and painting. Hand sanding with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper works well. Check the entire door for scratches dings and dents. All imperfections that can’t be removed through sanding will have to be dealt with after priming.

Clean all previously painted doors before any scraping or sanding. Cleaning will remove any residual oils left behind from repeatedly touching the door.

A liquid sander can be used in place of soap and water if the door doesn’t appear dirty; Paso is the product I use. Simple mild soap and water will work fine for mildly dirty surfaces. Heavily soiled surfaces will need TSP, trisodium phosphate. After using soaps and water, precondition the doors surface with a liquid sander, Paso is the product I use.

Remove all loose, blistered or chipped paint by carefully using a paint scraper. Apply even pressure with both hands. Be careful do not gouge the wood. Repair all dents, cracks and surface imperfections before finish sanding. Any imperfection on the surface of a smooth door will be enhanced by paint.

Bondo, auto body filler, or regular spackle will work best for most imperfections. Auto body filler will provide a very hard and smooth repair. Mix small amounts of Bondo at a time according to instructions. Sand ruff paint edges smooth with 80 grit sandpaper and continue sanding with 120 grit. Finish sanding with 180 or 220 grit to produce a smooth surface without deep sanding marks. For large areas use a palm or orbital sander.

Embossed Masonite doors offer many unique challenges. These doors cannot be sanded as with other types of doors. Tools that can be used are small brass wire brushes, nylon brushes and steel wool. Any patched area will stand out. While the spackle or Bondo is soft use a toothpick to add wood grain to a patched area. This is very difficult to do; you will need to be inventive.

After all patching and sanding, prime the entire door with oil base enamel under coater. Apply in the same order as with painting doors with a brush. Allow the primer to fully dry, this could take as little as 4 hours or as much as 24 hours. Hand sand the entire door with a fine sanding sponge or 220 sandpaper. Remove the dust with a shop vacuum and tack rags. A smooth clean surface before painting will produce a smooth finish.

Painting Doors Removed from the Frame

Painting doors can be easier when removed from the frame and either placed against a wall or on saw horses. This will allow easy access to the frame for preparation and painting. Plus all the door edges will be accessible.

* Pull the hinge pins and remove the door. This will be easier with two people.
* Place on sawhorses or lean against a wall. If extensive sanding and possible repair is needed use sawhorses. It is much easier to apply pressure on sandpaper when the door is at waist height.
* Remove the hinge leaves from the door and the frame. No need to mask or risk applying paint to the hinges.
* After sanding, screws can be installed at the 4 corners and the door suspended on the sawhorses. Use 2 ½ or 3 inch drywall screws driven half way into the door’s top and bottom edges. Make sure the screws are installed far enough to hold the weight of the door.

Add extra screws if needed. This will allow both sides of the doors to be painted at the same time. This method works great for light, hollow core, doors. For heavier doors and more control use Door Deckers, brackets that allow maneuverability with the sawhorse and easy stacking.

Another option is for spray-painting multiple doors at one time. The best method I have found is connecting each door to one another using inexpensive angle brackets, 6-8 inch work great. Attach the brackets with drywall screws and lift each door off the drop cloth with wood blocks.

Connect multable doors with angle brackets.
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Doors ready for spraying.
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Painting Doors Installed on the Frame

If you are painting doors while installed on the frame, care and skill with a brush is needed. This will allow the door and frame to be painted in one session without worrying about re-hanging the door.

Protect the hinges using blue painter’s masking tape. Masking hinges is very easy. Begin by applying blue, low adhesion, masking tape over both halves of the hinge. Run the tape over the hinge onto the door edge. Use a sharp razor knife to trim away the excess tape following the outline of the hinge.

Masking the hinges isn’t necessary if you have a steady hand and good brush.

Protect the floor from paint drips and splatters with a piece of cardboard or small drop cloth. Tape and masking paper can be used around the frame and casing.

Applying the Finish Paint

You have several options concerning the paint application. This includes brushing, rolling and spraying the finish paint. Before the paint can be applied it needs to be conditioned. For brushing, rolling or spraying use a little paint conditioner, Flotrol for water base paints or Penitrol for oil base paints. Add enough to allow the paint to flow on the surface and not be sticky. Follow the manufactures instructions.

Painting Doors with a Paint Brush

Painting sequence for a paneled interior door.
Click To Enlarge
To minimize brush marks while painting doors use a good professional paint brush plus apply the finish in sections and in sequence. The best sequence is edges, beveled areas and panels then the styles and rails. Begin at the top and work your way to the bottom.

The components of paneled doors are important and need to be understood. The vertical areas are called “styles”. The horizontal areas are “rails”.

Painting paneled doors must be done in a way that defines the look of these areas. Whenever the styles and rails meet, a straight line must be maintained. Always brush in the direction of the wood grain.

First brush all the edges. Quickly remove any thick paint on the sharp edges of the door. If using sawhorses, don’t worry about the screws on the top and bottom. These areas won’t be seen.

Brushing the beveled areas on doors.

The second step is the beveled areas around the panels. A 1½-inch brush works well on these areas, depending on the style of the door.

Brushing panel flat areas.

Next, paint the panel flats. Use full-length brush strokes immediately after applying the paint to the panels. A 2-2½ brush will be needed for these large flat areas.

The rails and styles are last when painting doors with a brush. Begin with the top rail. Then apply the paint to the styles from the top to the next rail. Alternate between the rails and styles until you your finished.

Brushing paint on door rail. Brushing paint on door style.

Don’t try to touch-up the paint when it’s wet. Trying to recoat any areas now will damage the look of the paint. Allow the paint to fully dry then repaint any areas that require another coat.

Painting Doors with a Roller

A roller can be used while painting doors and is a good option for flat slab doors or if you have several doors to paint, and not a lot of time to get the job done. The best paint roller to use is a minnie or hot dog roller with a short nap cover. These rollers are similar to mohair rollers but very skinny and only 3-6 inches in length.
Rolling door.

Painting doors with a roller offers you two choices; leave the fine roller stipple on the door or lay-off with a brush. Your choice will be a matter of personal preference and choice of finish paint.

Oil base paints flow on a surface more than Acrylics; therefore brush marks will be less defined. Conditioning the paint will produce the best look no matter which type is used or if the door is “laid off” with a brush.

A brush is still needed for cutting in the edges or next to the hinges. If you decide to lay-off the rolled paint with a brush follow the same sequence as when brushing a door.

Rolling a door will take a little practice. Try to apply the paint evenly and not to heavy. It is best to apply two thin coats instead of a single thick one. Work the roller carefully so no roller marks or lines from the rollers edge are remaining.

Spray Painting Doors

Spraying a door is the only option for a truly smooth surface without brush marks or roller stipple. Plus with the use of an airless or HVLP sprayer many doors can be painted in very little time.
Sraying a door with HVLP sprayer.

Painting doors with a sprayer will be a bit messy with overspray being a major concern. A garage or similar building will be needed. The only time spraying doors can be done in a house is with new construction.

The door needs to be properly prepared, same as all doors. Except a perfectly smooth surface, free of defects, is necessary for the best finish. Paint exaggerates all imperfections.

The easiest sprayer to use is a HVLP. This spray system will give you great control over the amount of paint applied and do it with less overspray. Unfortunately, this sprayer is slower than an airless, but using an HVLP spray gun is simple.

Airless paint sprayers can apply a lot of paint very quickly, so painting doors using an airless will require precision and control. Choosing a small spray tip and conditioning the paint will give you better control and a finer finish. A fine finish spray tip will reduce the amount of paint that is applied and proper conditioning will allow the use of lower pressure, providing better control.

A final consideration is overspray. Not only can this stuff travel and land everywhere, it will ruin adjacent doors. Overspray landing on a wet or tacky door will cause a finish similar to fine sandpaper.

One way to stop excessive overspray from landing on adjacent doors is by carefully using cardboard shields. While applying the paint hold the shield on the edge nearest the spray gun and in the direction of the overspray, difficult but possible with practice. This is more of a problem with airless sprayers.

Considerations When Painting Doors

* Keep the area clean and minimize dust while painting doors.
* If the door separates two rooms with different door colors, paint the edges to match the side that is visible when the door is open. The hinge edge matches the room the door swings from and the latch edge matches the room the door swings into.

Cladding that improves energy efficiency and minimizes maintenance

Foundry premium vinyl siding is cast from real cedar to lend
authenticity, but it never needs painting or staining, according

Memo to the three little pigs: You now have more exterior cladding
choices for your houses. And, they sure beat sticks and straw.

Although the National Association of Home Builders says the majority of
new houses in the Midwest are still clad with brick, wood or vinyl
siding, the “other” category is gaining on these favorites.

Two forces are at work here, says Stephen Melman, director of economic
services of the NAHB. “One, home buyers want their houses to be
low-maintenance,” he says. “Two, they want environmentally friendly and
energy-efficient materials.” So, while brick holds it own among buyers
who can afford its steep price tag, other earth-friendly choices such
as fiber-cement siding increase their market share.

Although it didn’t even appear in the NAHB statistics until 2005,
fiber-cement siding had 8 percent of the market in the Midwest by 2008.
It appeals to wood lovers because it resembles wood, but doesn’t
require repainting. Made of cement, recycled fly ash and wood fiber, it
is a green product and has warranties as long as 50 years.

Now, though, some contractors are abandoning fiber-cement siding for
the new kid on the block, LP Building Products’ SmartSide. Like
fiber-cement, this engineered-wood siding has a wood-grain surface,
does not require repainting and is fungus-resistant. It comes in
traditional clapboard profiles, plus shingle, board-and-batten and
stucco-like panels.

“With the LP product, you have longer board lengths, so there’s less
chance for water infiltration, and it just looks better,” says Libertyville-based
home builder Brad Meyer. “Cutting it doesn’t require special blades.
And, it generates regular sawdust, unlike the cloud of cement and
silicone dust from fiber-cement that bothers the workers and neighbors.”

For wood zealots, EcoVantage makes a new type of wood siding called
EternaClad, available in clapboard or tongue-and-groove. It is wood
that’s thermally modified to resist moisture, rot, mildew and insects.
You can stain it or let it weather naturally.

While vinyl siding is not new, it has entered a second generation,
reports Melman. “Used to be, it was pretty noisy inside a vinyl house
when it rained,” he recalls. “But the product improved in strength,
sound-proofing and energy efficiency.” Some brands, including
DuraPlank, are insulated sandwiches of vinyl, foam and air pockets.

At the same time, vinyl siding manufacturers have added colors to their
formerly drab lines of beiges and grays. This suited Patty Egan of Northbrook,
who used a deep-green version of Ply Gem’s Variform insulated vinyl
siding to clad her house when she added a second floor. “It adds a
layer of insulation and gives us the wood look without having to paint
it,” she says. “We’re all about maintenance-free!”

For home buyers who like the shake shingles that clad Long Island
houses, but don’t want wood upkeep, some manufacturers offer non-wood
facsimiles. The Foundry, for example, uses shake-shingle molds to
create the authentic-looking imperfections on its vinyl siding. Unlike
its wooden counterpart, it is fire-resistant, doesn’t shrink or crack
and comes with a fitted, foam backing.

Style Crest makes rounded vinyl siding for a log-cabin look. For an
unconventional façade, it offers WildSide Exterior Cladding with a
camouflage pattern.

Synthetic stucco got a bad rap in the 1990s, when some contractors
installed it incorrectly and mold grew between the walls. Whole
subdivisions ditched the stuff. Now, this finish is worth another look.
Installed correctly, this finish can create an energy-efficient and
sound-proofed house that requires minimal exterior maintenance.

At the high end of the housing price ladder, stone still rules, at
least as an accent. In fact, in the NAHB’s 2007 Home of the Future
report, home builders predicted that stone will reign in upscale homes
for the next 10 years.

“Stone costs three times as much as brick, so rarely does a buyer want the whole exterior in stone,” says Steve Lecas of Frankfort-based Gander Builders Inc. “Typically, he wants stone accents on a brick or fiber-cement house.”

But today’s buyer doesn’t want the same-ole-same-ole stone, adds Lecas.
“Instead of the typical Midwestern stones like limestone, they want
something different, like bluestone from Pennsylvania.”

For the look of stone for a fraction of the price, consider
manufactured stone. Manufacturers, including Owens Corning, have
expanded their product lines. Made of Portland cement, aggregates and
iron oxide pigments, it doesn’t require the brick base that real stone
needs because it weighs less. Contractors attach it directly to the
houses’ substrates.

Lecas’ favorite product for the brick-and-stone fan club is PastelCote
from Boral Bricks. This heavily cobbled brick comes with an acrylic
finish to give the house a “been here for 100 years” look. For existing
brick, Boral sells ReCote finish.

If the clapboard Colonial bores you to tears, check out some of the new
forms of cladding that give a house a sleek, modern look, while
providing energy-efficiency.

EcoClad from Klip Bio Technologies LLC, for example, is a 50/50 blend
of wood and bamboo fibers, plus recycled paper. A co-polymer resin
gives these 48- by 96-inch sheets a scratch-resistant finish. Choose a
matte color for an industrial look or a wood grain for a furniture-like
appearance.

Another option for wood lovers who prefer modern architecture, says
Chicago architect Paul Florian, is Parklex Facade, which are
high-density, stratified-timber panels made of paper and resins.

“Parklex is a warm contrast to our metal roof,” says Florian client Tim
Goodsell, who used it to clad the addition to his 1880 Chicago cottage.
“We chose it because we like the way it looks, but the zero maintenance
and the energy-efficiency are pluses.”

Although the Midwest falls behind hurricane-prone regions with concrete
choices, we are catching on, says Jim Baty, technical director for the
Concrete Foundations Association. Concrete exteriors fall into four
basic types:

The removable concrete form (RCF) is a solid, monolithic, wall-and-roof
shell with no joints. It can be clad in brick or siding, or coated and
used as the exterior. The insulated concrete form (ICF) is similar to
RCF, but must be clad.

The Panel System comes precast (built in a plant) or tilt-up (built on
site) and has joints. “Erect it and, voila, you have a house,” says
Baty. “You can add cladding or coat it, but typically it’s coated.”

The autoclaved eerated concrete (AAC) system is like building a house
with Legos, says Baty. Lightweight, porous, concrete blocks are usually
clad with stucco. This is more common in the South, though, because it
doesn’t perform as well in our climate and is difficult to insulate, he
adds.

For pictures of concrete houses, Baty suggests visiting concretehomescouncil.org or cfawalls.org.

Overall, says Baty, concrete is a durable, sustainable product that
makes an efficient house. It may cost 10 percent more than
stick-framing, says Baty, but your concrete house could be the last one
standing after a tornado.

Life After Acoustic (popcorn) ceilings. . . you give your ceiling a fresh look Attractive | Popper Corn

Life After Acoustic (popcorn) ceilings. . . you give your ceiling a fresh look Attractive

LIFE AFTER ACOUSTIC (popcorn) ceilings. . . GIVE YOUR CEILINGS an attractive fresh new look, now that was the acoustic (popcorn) was successfully removed and properly disposed of, we can finally begin to breathe a sigh up! Gone are the pebbles unattractive, that the post of pockets of dust, dirt and allergens. Gone are the cobwebs and insect gall these terrible stains that can not be removed without damaging the ear canal. Good Riddance. And now that the ceiling to dry completely away from the noise, we are ready now, some questions about what we should do, check and how we were going to do it. In the article “How To Remove Acoustic (Popcorn) From your ceilings once and for all”, I briefly describe the land on the ceiling, the repair would have been damaged by the scraping noise. And in another article that I wrote “How To Finish Drywall … And we get a good result, “I gave a step by step guide on how to finish drywall. But in this article assumes that you and I will outline a plan that gives a pretty interesting roof that looks nice and is very easy to keep the focus must read. If you have not read the two articles, which leads to this, please click on the links and see how everything is done. At this point you should be covered, clean, smooth and dry. Although it took a lot ‘of work to reach this step, you should be glad to see that does not look a whole order popcorn – the blankets so bad. But it is not finished yet, and that the trip is on us to get started. For simplicity, we will have a plan to buy blankets to help us, just the opposite of the acoustic / popcorn implement the disorder. We want limits that are safe for the environment (asbestos), anti-allergenic, keep the beautiful appearance, easy to bottom right. . . for years to come! And my overwhelming choice for a solution to the acoustic / popcorn ceiling is a light of the “orange peel” texture. Yes, this type of structure is named after its appearance similar to the hull of an orange. The fruit, which many of us that love has a plot that takes its name from its hull. In essence, this is the way to get the name of “orange peel”. Once that has been sprayed on the ceiling, you should be able to see that it has great similarity to the hull outside of an orange, is very similar.